Opinion on the Rust on this 1814 made Sabre Briquet.

[Adravor]

Hello Forum,

I recently bought this french Sabre Briquet which was made in 1814.
I know its a bit old for this forum, but i would like your opinion on the rust.
The Sabre Briquet was the standart Infantry saber of the French Army and it was first introduced in 1802, the model that i have should be the Model IX and thus the last variation of these sabers, they where offically used in the French army till 1831, but served longer in other armys.
It has a lot of Stamps and Approval marks on both blade and hilt, the main one on the hilt is damaged and it once read "Versailles" and you can still recognize the top of the writing.
On the back of the Blade it has "Manufre Rle du Klingenthal 7 bre 1814" engraved, which is the date and place it was produced.

As you see it is in beautiful condition for its 206 years, but the blade seems to have some (New?) rust on it. I personally like to keep items in the condition i get them, but i´m worried the blade could take further damage from the rust. So i would like to hear your opinion about it.
Any help would be appreciated!

Regards,
Adravor



-Manufre Rle du Klingenthal 7 bre 1814-



Different stamps.


The rust on the blade.

[BodhiEtheridge]

I don’t know if this is a good way of doing it but when I have light surface rust on items I have used a rag with a spray of gun oil (I use Rem Oil) and rub the rusted area. I’m sure they’re better ways though so I would also listen to all other replies.

Regards,
Bodhi

[BrodieBartfast]

I’ve used oil and steel wool to remove rust from knives in the past, but the wool does scour the blade’s surface. Alright for a cheap British Army jackknife, not so much for a blade of this age. I’d probably leave it alone, and keep an eye on the rust to ensure it doesn’t spread.

B.B.

[Tank Destroyer]

Stainless steel pad and gun oil will clean it and not damage the blade. NOT STEEL WOOL

[Anderson]

I would think some recent owner has acid cleaned it, that would have removed the 2 centurys of browned patina, but also made the surface susceptible to new oxidation. So after that cleaning a little water left on the blade could cause the rust spots now evident. I would tend to just wipe it with an oily rag, the time honoured method.
By the way these swords are apparently very good for slicing the neck off a bottle of good French wine.

[Adravor]

That’s true Anderson! This way of opening Champagner was supposedly even invented with a saber like this by Emperor Napoléon himself. While that seems like a myth there may be some truth behind it.

[MedicalAmmunitionCrate]

Doesn't look too bad.. I'd say leave it, and make it doesn't spread. If it does, do what I do and lick your thumb then just try to wipe it off with a bit of pressure. If not, a small bit of gun oil on a rag and rub it. Please don't use steel wool!

[Adravor]

I followed your suggestions, cleaned the rust on the top with a bit of water and a rug, dried it and oiled it after.
Thank you very much!

[HetzersGonnaHetz]

From my experience, and please correct me if I’m wrong, but the dark brown patches of rust seen on items are usually ‘inactive’ and are nothing to worry about at all, and it’ll often be a bit tougher to get them off, Whereas ‘active’ rust is light orange and usually very easy to remove (I’ve often found I can just rub it with a cloth with nothing on it and it will come off)

For my deacts I use 3 in 1 Oil, any will do, I use the aerosol version, others are available. Spray it onto a lint free micro fibre rag, which can be found in any bargain store, and rub it down to leave a nice finish to protect the item from the elements.

For other items, like Helmets and Bayonets, I have used RenWax, which I believe is used by museums. Just apply a light smearing of it from a micro fibre cloth and it’ll firm up and is brilliant for preserving items once you’ve removed any rust. I put some RenWax on a helmet I’ve got about 2 years ago now and no active rust has ever started up on it while I’ve owned it!

In short, either 3 in 1 Oil or RenWax usually does the job, avoid WD40 though.

[Adravor]

I used Ballistol, i´ve used it for my sword reproductions so far and it worked perfect.
That Oil was suposeldy created for the german Army in the early 20th century.
My relic Helmets just stay the way they are as soon as the rust is removed, the steel that is used for helmets is, as far as i know, way more resistent then the one used on swords.