01-09-2010, 09:33 PM
Dear Adrian, if you have a question, just ask and the many German speakers will help you.
by Adrian Stevenson
The caption: Order beyond reproach in front of the counter and behind: the interior view of the shop of the retail outlet (RZM lingo) Wimmer & Draudt in Darmstadt (Hessen)
There is a book or booklet with all these photos published by this same publishing house in Berlin that did UM.
Do you have it?
01-09-2010 09:33 PM
01-09-2010, 09:42 PM
My friends in Vienna who are in the militaria business amid the official auction houses, the ghosts of Harry Lyme, and a still pretty vibrant tailoring business oriented to the niceties of life there (balls, operas, theater and the like) pointed out to me that no one can afford an eight year apprenticeship any more. The issue arose exactly over cap piping in a fake black SS officer's cap that had come from a collector and how the piping in the crown was the work of the Muetzenmeister, i.e. the piping was the most exacting of the several steps in cap making.
Also, the work of the Zuschneider to cut the cloth in such a way, and so expertly as to extract the most material, created the least waste, and keep costs under control, as the most expensive raw material was the textile.
And my interlocutor has a great deal of experience there and is an expert for the leading auction houses on militaria. He thought the cap was real, but it had silly, lumpy piping like the crack in a wall.
The system pioneered by the US in Europe from the 1920s until today was to smash the guild system and the cartel system, and otherwise wipe out the master/apprentice system through the production line, rationalization, efficiency, motion studies, scientific management, and more bang for the buck with the programming, planning and budgeting system. It worked, since the handicrafts are now solely for the elite few.
Sort of sad, really.
PS I am not a Bolshevik, either, mind you.
01-09-2010, 10:16 PM
Maybe I should have written "orderly beyond reproach..." above, I think.
How many caps can you count in this picture?
01-09-2010, 10:25 PM
There is also a nice article in the UM of 1936 on the successful practices of retail and customer relations in a brauner Laden.
I have to find it again and post it here.
One of the issues with these RZM blessed Vertriebsstellen was the relative capacity to survive and prosper just on RZM items, and the desire to retail other stuff that Nazis would want with the officially sanctioned items. This lead to fights over what was appropriate and what was in bad taste or tacky, as is so typical of lower middle class view of rank and society.
Elsewhere the UM people are highly irritated that items of military uniforms are sold together with food in military mess halls, which is a huge breach of the idea of the Ehrenkleid des Soldaten.
It is akin to selling Parisian haute couture at Walmart, and not even that.
The consciousness of estate and guild pride as well as the horror at mass society, industrialization, leveling of standards, as well, of course, anti-Semitism are all pretty tangible in this stuff.
When I think of it, it is akin to the attitude of some life style Mercedes Benz types who are unnerved by the fact that Daimler Benz makes trucks and buses, and a luxury car maker could never retail the latter in the US. I, for one, am happy my car has the heritage of a taxi mixed with a racing car, but others have finer sensibilities than mine. The taxi thing unhinges them.
Such matters of taste and fashion are always interesting.
01-10-2010, 05:29 AM
I forgot all about this pic--happy hour at an early Mutzenfabrik:
01-10-2010, 04:19 PM
I saw this, too, years back. A very nice and pleasing image of our subjects. It was just such a woman in western Germany who owned this book that I now own. She had wonderful handwriting and inscribed her name with the same care as one sees in these caps.
Here a typical illustration of changes to dress regulations and the tailoring of clothing. Apparently in the Luftwaffe Fliegerbluse there had been no closure on the inner pocket, and such was later introduced to prevent the contents of same from falling out during drill and field training.
This kind of drawing is typical.
01-10-2010, 04:26 PM
Here is a hint of a volume on the tailoring of party uniforms of which I have never heard. Have you seen it?
01-10-2010, 04:28 PM
This volume did appear and I actually own it, too.
It is a guide to the tailoring of Wehrmacht uniforms.
01-10-2010, 04:29 PM
There existed a whole category of firms for "Muetzenzutaten," and since sweat bands play such an outsize role in the life of some cap savants and internet gurus and hobbyists on other sites, here is just such a firm. But there were many more.
01-10-2010, 04:31 PM
The publisher of Uniformen Markt published a variety of books.
Who has them all today? I have only three of the titles listed, but am grateful. I did not see the PL, SA, SS volume then later appear that was announced above.
There is a huge amount of detail in these journals, which is somewhat harder to see because of the DVD/PDF format. You have to read it all very carefully.
Also things of more merit than "crimped prongs...."