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Muetzenfabrik

Article about: F.B. Reichenbach is about 10 km (6 miles) away from me. If you want, I'll make a photo of the building. If it is still standing.

  1. #361

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    These pages from the Handbuch d RZM are germane to our quest.Click image for larger version. 

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    damit, basta.

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  3. #362

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Quote by Friedrich-Berthold View Post
    These pages from the Handbuch d RZM are germane to our quest.Click image for larger version. 

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    F-B--
    Has the Handbuch ever been reprinted?
    NEC SOLI CEDIT

  4. #363

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Quote by stonemint View Post
    F-B--
    Has the Handbuch ever been reprinted?
    Only a couple of pages. You would be more than surprised by the list of the A 2 craftsmen. The book in its totality is 820 pp. In the 1970s the work of Clyde Davis extracted some of it, and this page here was reprinted by Bender years ago. Otherwise, it is a book with seven seals and shall remain as such.Click image for larger version. 

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    The Library of Congress has a microform of it, though. Actual examples are only to be found in leading central European research libraries.
    damit, basta.

  5. #364

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Well, F-B, if someone would just take the time to translate your Praxis book, the RZM bible, Uniformenmarkt, and "Der Schneidermeister" we would all be 1/2 way there. However, we will only continue to get innumerable coffee-table books on Militaria from all the various Militaria publishers, yet not one will step up to re-print that which is truly informative.

    BTW, Der Schneidermeister is apparently available on DVD. I am going to try and get a copy:
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture Click image for larger version. 

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    NEC SOLI CEDIT

  6. #365

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    This one is also very good and I just bought it. It contains an excellent and nicely written introduction to tailoring and its modernization for uniforms with the example of Peek & Cloppenburg.Name:  herstellung8.jpg
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Size:  40.3 KB It was published in 1942, and if one reads beyond the normal Nazi sort of bla bla, as well as the anti Semitic and anti American stuff, it is very informative. The same thing is in UM as concerns the modernization and industrialization of the uniform trade on a Taylorite basis. It is really an old story, but it is one that is by no means clear to the coffee table book authors, especially in the US. Es tut mir aufrichtig Leid.
    Also, you should know that I have a very demanding professional assignment that does not allow me to spend hundreds of hours on such translations. I am eagerly collecting all these things against the day when I can write more, but in the meantime, my real life duties are pretty comprehensive and allow little time other than these posts in their incoherent quality.
    damit, basta.

  7. #366

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    The RZM Handbuch is essentially a telephone book like directory of all the licensed firms of the moment in 1935 when it was compiled. What it does have that is found no where else is all the handicraft cap makers on an artisan basis as well as the smaller registry of industrial based cap firms. Your focus is the latter, but the former were far and away the majority and they were the tradition in tailoring from the middle ages and its guilds.Click image for larger version. 

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    damit, basta.

  8. #367
    ?

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Quote by Friedrich-Berthold View Post
    This one is also very good and I just bought it. It contains an excellent and nicely written introduction to tailoring and its modernization for uniforms with the example of Peek & Cloppenburg...
    The image with the patriarchal gentleman instructing the row of seamstresses has always been very striking to me. It is a posed photograph and the subject is the tall dominant man. The women passively observe in their rayon work frocks as he lectures them, his back turned, pointing out something outside the photograph and at great height. Perhaps it is a political lecture? There is something very sad about images like these, they are windows into a doomed society, one that dragged many lives down with it.

    I apologize for the maudlin photo analysis. These women must have worked incredibly hard and had increasing pressure put upon them as the four year plan squeezed the quality and craftmanship out of these uniform items due to increasing war desperation.

    Onto the RZM manual -- Imagine explaining its significance to a complete layperson, both to the period and collecting.

    Maybe one day I shall gaze into its thin crisp pages and wonder at the words that will reveal scant meaning to my anglophonic self.

    FB sir, your posts are not in vain and possess a splendid coherence! You excel at staying on message.

  9. #368

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    The Fuehrerprinzip in action, especially since the women at work at Peek & Cloppenburg represented the Nazi vision of female energy in service of victory in total war. The text of the volume is far more valuable than the pictures, but it is nicely written and of a genre that goes strong in Germany, today, that is vocational training that somehow aspires to pride in handicrafts and the role of the worker in the nation. None of it being at all really Marxist, but also not without the influence of the latter along with modernized guild pride. In this case, though, in the face of what is called "Americanization," i.e. "Fordism."
    It is actually an interesting book and also a knock off in another way of other histories of uniforms through history of the era which are always interesting, too.
    It is not a book for the website stitch fairies, archaeological fetishists, and internet pedants, but all the more valuable all the same.Click image for larger version. 

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    damit, basta.

  10. #369

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    I have obsessive compulsive disorder when it comes to textiles, you see.
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    damit, basta.

  11. #370
    ?

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    I researched the area of optical character recognition software recently. I hoped that technology might help with the task of digitising this wealth of information.

    Unfortunately, most can't handle the Fraktur typeface at all well with the f and s problem being the major one. Then of course you've still got the translation problem with most computer driven translators spewing out jibberish.

    Yes, I know I should just learn the language!

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