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Muetzenfabrik

Article about: F.B. Reichenbach is about 10 km (6 miles) away from me. If you want, I'll make a photo of the building. If it is still standing.

  1. #361

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    This one is also very good and I just bought it. It contains an excellent and nicely written introduction to tailoring and its modernization for uniforms with the example of Peek & Cloppenburg.MuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrik It was published in 1942, and if one reads beyond the normal Nazi sort of bla bla, as well as the anti Semitic and anti American stuff, it is very informative. The same thing is in UM as concerns the modernization and industrialization of the uniform trade on a Taylorite basis. It is really an old story, but it is one that is by no means clear to the coffee table book authors, especially in the US. Es tut mir aufrichtig Leid.
    Also, you should know that I have a very demanding professional assignment that does not allow me to spend hundreds of hours on such translations. I am eagerly collecting all these things against the day when I can write more, but in the meantime, my real life duties are pretty comprehensive and allow little time other than these posts in their incoherent quality.

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  3. #362

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    The RZM Handbuch is essentially a telephone book like directory of all the licensed firms of the moment in 1935 when it was compiled. What it does have that is found no where else is all the handicraft cap makers on an artisan basis as well as the smaller registry of industrial based cap firms. Your focus is the latter, but the former were far and away the majority and they were the tradition in tailoring from the middle ages and its guilds.MuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrik

  4. #363
    ?

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Quote by Friedrich-Berthold View Post
    This one is also very good and I just bought it. It contains an excellent and nicely written introduction to tailoring and its modernization for uniforms with the example of Peek & Cloppenburg...
    The image with the patriarchal gentleman instructing the row of seamstresses has always been very striking to me. It is a posed photograph and the subject is the tall dominant man. The women passively observe in their rayon work frocks as he lectures them, his back turned, pointing out something outside the photograph and at great height. Perhaps it is a political lecture? There is something very sad about images like these, they are windows into a doomed society, one that dragged many lives down with it.

    I apologize for the maudlin photo analysis. These women must have worked incredibly hard and had increasing pressure put upon them as the four year plan squeezed the quality and craftmanship out of these uniform items due to increasing war desperation.

    Onto the RZM manual -- Imagine explaining its significance to a complete layperson, both to the period and collecting.

    Maybe one day I shall gaze into its thin crisp pages and wonder at the words that will reveal scant meaning to my anglophonic self.

    FB sir, your posts are not in vain and possess a splendid coherence! You excel at staying on message.

  5. #364

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    The Fuehrerprinzip in action, especially since the women at work at Peek & Cloppenburg represented the Nazi vision of female energy in service of victory in total war. The text of the volume is far more valuable than the pictures, but it is nicely written and of a genre that goes strong in Germany, today, that is vocational training that somehow aspires to pride in handicrafts and the role of the worker in the nation. None of it being at all really Marxist, but also not without the influence of the latter along with modernized guild pride. In this case, though, in the face of what is called "Americanization," i.e. "Fordism."
    It is actually an interesting book and also a knock off in another way of other histories of uniforms through history of the era which are always interesting, too.
    It is not a book for the website stitch fairies, archaeological fetishists, and internet pedants, but all the more valuable all the same.MuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrik

  6. #365

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    I have obsessive compulsive disorder when it comes to textiles, you see.
    Nor do I expect this all to be put on Kindle anytime soon, and if it were, I would not read it thus, anyway.MuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrik

  7. #366
    ?

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    I researched the area of optical character recognition software recently. I hoped that technology might help with the task of digitising this wealth of information.

    Unfortunately, most can't handle the Fraktur typeface at all well with the f and s problem being the major one. Then of course you've still got the translation problem with most computer driven translators spewing out jibberish.

    Yes, I know I should just learn the language!

  8. #367

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    The UM is already digitalized, but the German is of a kind no longer really spoken. Nazi German and early 20th century German had its own special traits, which are are more and more arcane and removed from the language spoken today. Further, there is a specialized vocabulary among tailors and those in the textile trade that is present in many of these works, where things are a given among those who had the vocational training. We outsiders can only poorly comprehend same. The 21st century idea that there is a short cut to all of this is its own reward, dear readers. English may be the digitalized, globalized lingua franca of the 21st century, but it was not the language of cap makers in 1935 Germany.


    If I am beating a dead horse, then maybe it reflects the years of lonely, unpaid, and unrewarded labor that enabled me to read this stuff now. No one was there in the 1970s and 1980s to reflect on this in a computer network. I spent a long time alone in book towers, in archives, in German universities and the like.

    Did not Moltke say it best: "Genie ist fleiss!"MuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrikMuetzenfabrik

  9. #368
    ?

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Quote by Friedrich-Berthold View Post
    The UM is already digitalized,
    Not exactly FB. This is my area of expertise and there is a major difference between scanning a paper document to become a digital photocopy if you like and scanning a document that will wil turn it into a digital composite of separately recognised text and images. At the moment, the UM in digital format is nothing more than digital pictures of the original.

  10. #369

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    Good luck. I will leave all this to you. I am a man of the 20th century. Maybe you can make me a time machine, and I will return whence I came. The contemporary understanding of the parameters of knowledge is very alien to me.

  11. #370

    Default Re: Muetzenfabrik

    U-M was bound in volumes, but are rarely found in this manner:
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture Muetzenfabrik   Muetzenfabrik  

    Attached Images Attached Images Muetzenfabrik 
    “Show me the regulation, and I’ll show you the exception.”

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