The making of a dummy head for display purpose

[stuka f]

I was asked many times how a mould is made. So here is how I proceed.Mind ;this is a my way of doing something I developed over the years and are still improving. Check also the internet; when googling "mould making" you will get some very fine explanations. But , there is one thing I have learned over the years, and that is that each and everyone of us will develope his own way of working, just as one would do in any other profession or hobby.But that is part of the experience ones getting over the years.
Making a mould of a flat object is the most easy thing to do, for example; one side of a coin!!
Making a coin, with the two sides, will be more difficult.
Making a ring, so you can put it on your finger is even more complex....and so on.
What I am going to show you here is how to make a copy of an existing dummies head. Thise came up recently (more or less!!) in the forum, so here it is.
Find yourself an nice example to copy and put a protective film on it! The silicone I use is the best there is and is self-losend (also doesn't shrink a bit!!) but I still use wax to be sure. The thing is you don't have any clue about the result until the whole job is done, so be sure every step is well done!

[stuka f]

then try to evaluate the retaining area's ; like ears, nose, chine etc..
Because the silicone mould would have to come off like a sock.
So I make a silicone mould that splits and folds for a part..otherwise it will crack or damage your originale or copy's, when trying to get the silicone mould of. Now the silicone I use is the best and is very strong.
You could also make a silicone in two parts, like you will have to do with the reataining polyester mould, but where the two parts join you will always have a line, so I prefere to have it at the back of the dummy's head, the way I do it.

[stuka f]

then start applying your silicone; not on the whole head, just make sure you create a strong silicone ridge next to the one you made with (yellow)wax.So it (the yellow wax ridge) can be removed in order to complete your silicone mould. If like on thise one the ears are a retaining point ; fill the gap between the ears and the head with silicone. Because your silicone mould will start opening at the back (at the ridge) and come forward over the head.
Notice that I filled a box with seed, that gives me the chance to hold up the head in nearly every position I want it in to.

[stuka f]

notice also I made a "lock" in the ridge, thise can be done in different ways !
The meaning is to make sure your mould is always in the right position before filling it with plaster.

[stuka f]

Then wax your ridge. Only the ridge so the new silicone your are going to put on does not stick to the ridge. Be carefull only to wax the ridge because the silicone as to be put on in thin layers and would not stick to any part having wax on. On the other hand it sticks to the premery silicone layer wich is not waxed and will never part! Just dab the bruch on the place wher you want the silicone to be, do not brusch it like paint as your are creating air bubbles by doing so.
Next picture should be the last one ,but I just put it here to show how it as to come . I do seem to have lost or not taken enough pic's.

[stuka f]

Next stage is preparing the ridgid mould to be applyed over the silicone one who is finished now.
Thise one will come in two pieces, and to do so you we will need scissors, a strong but flexibel sheet; I used alu sheets that are used in the printing industry. And a sort of comb with is dents going up and down.
Sorry but my English isn't that good so when it comes to technical stuff ...it is worse, but I have got the pictures to help.

[stuka f]

that "comb" allows us to get a perfect profile of any objetc.
I love thise part of the job , thise "combs" come into different sizes and finitions, they are a very good tool when copying stuff.
When having thise profile, we bring it over on the alu sheet, cut the profile and glue it to the silicone on the head, so it creates a divided head.
A similar technic is used on wax creations , to get a bronze copy.But with wax or clay creation the metal sheet is droven into the statue, like a knife would be.

[stuka f]

When finished, put the head into the boxe with grains and make sure the alu sheet is well supported by the grains, so we can polyester one side of the head.
When that side is dry remove the alu sheet, turn the head and apply the other side of the ridgid mould angainst the first polyester and silicone. Don't be afraid polyester doen't stick to polyster like that. To make polyester stick to another ridgid one you need to sand and weaken the solid one first.

[stuka f]

nearly finished now!!
When two sides of theyre polyester contre- mould are finished; drill some holes thru the both parts that join from one side to the other, to put srews in to hold it in place.
Finish it , sanding and cutting it! Don't forget to thise as polyester can cut you badly when handling it.
The seperate the two contre -moulds gently without damaging your silicone mould. They do not stick , they are vaccum and that is the reason they do come off very hardly. Forcing air between them would help, but requires a extra construction. So use some old tools and patience.

[stuka f]

Take of the contre -mould so you can get to the silicone mould and take that one also gently off. Proceed in the opposite way putting everything back together, don't forget to leave the originale out(lol!!) and you can start filling your mould up with plaster.