Brit liners..Rexine, Rexene or Rexenne

[Composite]

For years and years they were simply called "liners". Then "oil-cloth" started to appear and latterly Rex(insert your preferred ending) has become de-rigueur. I've yet to find a CONSISTENT spelling....

Our friends at Wiki (?) tell us that Rexine was used in Britain from 1920s for seat coverings, particularly in the Car industry.....is this the same stuff?...do we actually KNOW what it is (and what it's called or have we all simply been copying the last guy?

Indeed...is it Rex-anything?!

Put me out of my misery......please......

[tinlid]

Well, our Mutual, states it's linseed oil based leather cloth.
An google search comes up with this.

Oilcloth and Painted Accouterments
by Jack Cox
“Painting” was a 1800’s method of waterproofing cloth for such items as knapsacks,
haversacks, belts, cartridge boxes and ground cloths. Properly done, the fabric does
become very waterproof, but retains its flexibility.
There are many different recipes for both "period accurate" oilcloth and for a modern
version that looks the same, but without some of the problems of the 1850's recipe. The
paint is generally applied over cotton drill or linen canvas.
The instructions below discuss the making of ground cloths, but the same procedure
applies to all painted goods.

Modern Recipe:
While this recipe is obviously not authentic, it produces the same look and feel as the
original methods. The final product looks, feels and wears as close to the original as most
of us can approximate today. However, you need to make a decision as to whether you
want to "fake it" with a modern approximation when a good period recipe is available.
Materials: Wallpaper sizing. Get it pre-mixed and ready to use.
Flat black or semi-gloss interior latex paint ***
Boiled linseed oil
Mineral spirits paint thinner
Japan dryer
(All of these materials are available at any good paint store)
Method: 1. Using a roller, paint both sides of the cloth with the
wallpaper sizing and let it dry. It should take an hour or less.
The sizing will prevent the paint from soaking the cloth, and it
will give it some "tooth" for paint adhesion.
2. Using a roller, paint one side of the cloth with the black
latex paint. Let it dry overnight.
3. Mix 2 parts of mineral spirits with 1 part boiled linseed
oil. Add Japan dryer. Use 1 oz. (2 tablespoons) per pint of
paint.
4. With a brush, paint the sized side of the cloth with the
linseed oil mix. Let it dry. This may take several days,
depending on temperature and humidity. It's NOT wise to let it
dry in the house.
5. Paint on two additional coats of the linseed oil mix. Let
it dry between coats.
*** There is a variation of this recipe that works very well also. Instead
of using plain latex paint, mix 2 parts of latex paint with one part of
boiled linseed oil. Stir it thoroughly, then follow the instructions
above.
Period Recipe:
This recipe is an approximation, since the original recipe specified "litharge," or lead
monoxide (PbO) which is extremely poisonous.
Bright Idea: Leave out the lampblack, and you have a recipe for a nice civilian
waterproof cloth.
I strongly recommend this recipe because it is about as authentic as you can get
without putting life and limb in danger.
Materials: Boiled linseed oil
Mineral spirits paint thinner (or turpentine)
Lampblack (comes in tubes or dry powder)
Japan dryer
Corn starch
Method: 1. Make a sizing by boiling about a quart of water and
adding cornstarch mixed in cold water until the mixture
becomes a little syrupy.
2. Paint the cloth with the cornstarch sizing and let
dry.
3. Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with one part of
mineral spirits. Add lamp black until the paint is a very
opaque black. Add one oz. (2 tbsp) of Japan dryer per
pint.
4. With a brush, paint the cloth with the blackened
linseed oil and let dry. This can take several days.
5. Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with two parts of
mineral spirits. Add one oz. of Japan dryer per pint.
6. With a brush, paint the cloth with the clear linseed
oil mixture and let it dry. This can also take several days.
Two coats of this mixture should give the results you want.
(You can omit the cornstarch sizing if you want, but the oil-based
paint will pretty much soak the cloth.)
Confederate Ordnance Manual Recipe:
There is a recipe from the 1863 Confederate Ordinance manual which I have not
tried. Use at your own risk.
Materials: 28 Parts lampblack
1 Part Japan varnish
73 Parts boiled Linseed oil
1 Part spirits of turpentine
1 Part litharge (substitute Japan Dryer for this.

[SMP]

Whatever it is called it has ruined thousands of Brit helmets with ugly stacking marks !

( It is a big hit with some of our faker friends, though !)

[HARRY THE MOLE]

A less messy solution is to purchase American oilcloth.

Forgot to add... 'Rexine' is an artificial leather cloth produced by 'Rexine Ltd' of Hyde, Manchester. The Americans refer to this as 'oilcloth'.

[Greg Pickersgill]

This is strangely fascinating; while reading here and researching elsewhere I have discovered for the first time that 'oilcloth' and 'linoleum' are NOT the same thing. That's amazing. Well, obviously they are in the same family of manufactured materials, but one is not the other. And according to Wikipedia the confusion arose sometime mid-20thC, more or less when I was born. Which explains why I habitually refer to lino as oilcloth. Well, there we are then. But what about Ronuk? As in 'on the Ronuk'. That may be a digression too far, though.

Was there a point? Yes, well, I'm sticking with 'Rexine' because that's a known trade name, and any variant is likely a simple misspelling. Also, it is often cited as the fabric used in USSR ssh39 and 40 helmets and that may well be correct.

[Anderson]

If the liners were oil soaked why do they dry up and crack so often. I bought in the 1970's a ex NZ Army Mk2 helmet that was refurbished with a 1955 dated liner. When I got it it was a soft and supple liner. I put in a box and dry stored it for 20 years. I rediscovered it in the 1990's and the liner had become dried out and brittle like burnt toast. Nasty stuff whatever was in the mixture.

[Composite]

So....there it is....thank you Mr P....we have a winner and it appears to be pronounced Reckseen......or possibly Reckzyne.....either way it's spelt Rexine.

...but as for Ronuk.......'new one to me matey!

[HARRY THE MOLE]

This is strangely fascinating; while reading here and researching elsewhere I have discovered for the first time that 'oilcloth' and 'linoleum' are NOT the same thing. That's amazing. Well, obviously they are in the same family of manufactured materials, but one is not the other. And according to Wikipedia the confusion arose sometime mid-20thC, more or less when I was born. Which explains why I habitually refer to lino as oilcloth. Well, there we are then. But what about Ronuk? As in 'on the Ronuk'. That may be a digression too far, though.

Was there a point? Yes, well, I'm sticking with 'Rexine' because that's a known trade name, and any variant is likely a simple misspelling. Also, it is often cited as the fabric used in USSR ssh39 and 40 helmets and that may well be correct.

'Linoleum'... or 'Lino' for short, was - and probably still is a form of floor covering, often used (in my youth) by the less well-off to cover floorboards, or concrete flooring.