The anatomy of the Schirmmutze

[Friedrich-Berthold]

Are we continuing this one guys i'm looking forward to more cap education

Maybe my German colleagues will translate what I have posted from the original sources, that is in Post # 4 above?
I do not have time to do so. sapere aude!

[Paul D]

Ben it's not strong area for me but i would really like to learn more and improve my knowledge so anyhting will be good for me !!!

[S.Vestae]

Great thread....thanks Ben !

[Glenn66]

Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words as they say and if the images can be matched with translated period documentation then so much the better. Nice work!

[KSH]

This is a transcript and translation of the wording of the first image in F-Bs post #4 in this thread. Since no-one else has bothered to translate it, I will have a go. Just bear in mind that I am not really comfortable with translating German into English, I have however done my best. It is not a literal translation, some places I have paraphrased to make the meaning clear to English speakers as best as I could.



Please correct me, anyone, if I go wrong on anything:

The original German:

Es ist also ein weiter Weg von der Rohware bis zur fertigen Mütze, ebenso lang ist auch die Liste der Materialien:

1. Grundtuch;
2. Besatztuch;
3. Biesentuch und Paspelschnur;
4. Futter;
5. Roßhaar, Gaze, Filz und Watte;
6. Randeinlage;
7. Stahle, breit und geschweift;
8. Stützen;
9. Schirm;
10. Leder;
11. Riemen;
12. Knöpfe;
13. Ventile;
14. Abzeichen und Kokarde;
15. Cellon-Ecke;
16. Druckmaterial;
17. Gummistreifen;
18. Garn und Seide.

Wer sich über alle Einzelheiten der Herstellung genauer informieren will, sei auf das Buch «Praxis der Mützenmacherei» von Fritz Hempe verwiesen. Außerdem wird demnächst ein neues Werk erscheinen: «Die Mütze, ihre Geschichte und ihre Herstellung», das eine sorgfältige Vorbereitung findet. (Die Bücher sind durch unsere Buchabteilung zu beziehen. «UM».)

In English (the text itself is in bold letters):

It is thus a long way from the raw material to the finished cap; likewise the list of materials (needed for the cap) is also long:

1. Base cloth (the main cloth);
2. Edging cloth:
3. Piping cloth and piping string;
4. Lining;
5. Horsehair, gauze, felt and wadding;
6. Purfling (edge insert);
7. (Band of?) Steel, wide and curved;
8. Supports;
9. Visor;
10. Leather;
11. Strap(s);
12. Buttons;
13. Valves (for venting the cap?);
14. Insignia and cockade;
15. «Cellon-corner(s)» – (Cellon is a brand of cellulose acetate), probably referring to the «sweat diamond»);
16. Printing materials;
17. Strip(s) of rubber;
18. Yarn and silk.

Those who want to inform themselves more precisely regarding the details of manifacture, may be directed to the book «Practices of Capmaking» by Fritz Hempe. In addition, a new oeuvre (here: book) will soon be published: «The cap, its history and its manifacture», which has been painstakingly prepared. (The books can be acquired/purchased through our book department. «UM».)

If this is of acceptable quality, I shall be glad to translate the step by step guide on the other image as well (unless HPL2008 wants the job, he is a much better translator than me). Remember also that it becomes more difficult to translate (for me) than other things, because it refers to the professional language of the cap makers that I'm not familiar with.

- Kenneth

[BenVK]

Kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

[BenVK]

Llllllllllllllllllllllllll

[KSH]

Excellent work Kenneth, we are indebted to you for your efforts.

Now, I just have to find this book by Fritz Hempe and my life will be complete!

I believe F-B has a copy of that book, of course it has only been published in German. The cover is shown in post #4 of this thread.

- Kenneth

[Friedrich-Berthold]

I believe F-B has a copy of that book, of course it has only been published in German. The cover is shown in post #4 of this thread.

- Kenneth

Here is said book. I know of no other copy, which cannot be the case, really.

Might I add to the excellent translation of my Norwegian friend that "Besatztuch" refers to cap band cloth, i.e. the badge cloth green band of the army cap, for instance. Or the velvet of an SS officer's cap.

[Friedrich-Berthold]

See Besatztuch here as the velvet band of the black SS officer's cap.
Grundtuch would refer to the black tricot wool of the cap cover.