Cap skull: SS/RZM 135/39 .850 silver marked

[russ]

HI
Thought i would post my latest find, is it OK.

Russ..........

[Greg Domian]

I don't even collect cap skulls and I know this one is bad. Looks to be a very bad casting. Have no idea what the 850 is, and the prongs I do believe are also something that has not been encountered before on an original.

Greg

[panzERIC]

Hi Gents,

Sorry for the bad new but I do confirm that this is a pure fake...

Regards,

ERIC.

[russ]

Hi
Thanks i thought as much. i wish i,d joined this forum months ago the knowledge and advice is excellent.
Russ.........

[bwanek1]

Wow, there are more "red flags" on that TK than in the stands at the Olympics in China!

No offense, but this one object could be a teaching aid to illustrate a half dozen or more features the beginning collector should look out for as obvious signs of a fake TK.

We can discuss them if anyone thinks it would be a good primer for the novice.

[russ]

I for one would be interested to know/learn

[bwanek1]

I for one would be interested to know/learn

Please understand that these are just a few obvious rules. There are MUCH better fakes than this with very subtle differences from originals. Learning these absolute basics will only keep you away from the bad fakes, but do not think that these alone are enough for you to jump into the deep water by yourself (a little knowledge is a dangerous thing). You have to do a LOT of study to know the difference between the high-end fakes and originals. It could--and one day will--fill a book.

OK, now that I have given the disclaimer, here are some of the major flaws illustrated by this poor fake:

1) The maker marks used on originals are well known. This one has a completely bogus number. See this thread for a list: https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/germa...tion-list.html

Even if you can't remember the numbers:

1A) NO original skulls were ever marked with SS runes in any form (in circles, diamonds, or by themselves).

1B) NO original maker marks were stamped in; they were included in the die and were integral to the piece of insignia once struck (like the words/date on a coin)

2) All originals were die-struck (formed by cold sheets of material being stamped between front and reverse forms). That process is the same used in the minting of coins. The products of that process are clean and crisp with smooth surfaces and fine details. Most fakes are cast (molten metal being poured or injected into a mold). That products of that process, like this one, are usually poorly detailed, particularly on the reverse. The edges are often "blobby." Note how this one looks like clay, which was pushed into a mold and then allowed to harden, rather than like a neatly minted coin.

3) A silver content mark might as well say "fake." Anyone trying to tell you that they have a rare, "private-purchase" silver set made for a senior officer is a crook!

4) The style of pins used on originals varied, but all were fairly delicate round or flat material and none were very long. Crude, heavy, LONG pins like these are a dead give-away of a fake.

That should get you started.

[russ]

cheers, a great help and should be of help to others