Care and feeding of a SA Dienstdolch RZM M7/36

[feholder]

Gents -

Love this web site! Answered a lot of questions in advance about our newest addition to the family, an SA RZM M7/36 (at just a touch under $700 I'm hoping it was a worthwhile addition - I've enclosed pics for you to be the judge and look forward to your insight).

As you can see from the pictures (I hope), there are a few spots where the blade is starting to "turn" - would like to polish the blade but common sense tells me otherwise - can anyone recommend the best way to arrest the spread or eliminate it altogether - better yet is there someone out there with some expertise i could send the dagger to? Certainly don't want to impact any value or damage it either by mucking it up, but would like it to match the condition of the scabbard which retains about 99% of the brown paint - I really liked that and hope you will too.

Secondly would like to know if it's better to display the dagger in the scabbard or separately. I have several older blades from the civil war which I display out of the scabbard as I've been told moisture can build up and create pitting or surface rust - is this the same case with an SA dagger?

Will be coming back often - look forward to the experts' insights!

Frank

[soalebm]

If you can I would display or store out of the scabbard. Sometimes scabbards will trap humidity and if you think you are going to have a large swing in humidity then take off the scabbard. However if you cannot or wish not to keep it off then keep the RH (relative humidity) at + /- 50% I keep my gun room between 40 and 50% but the swords at the museum where I work are kept at 40% so I think anything in that area is fine. However leather doesn't like 40% so try and keep leather stuff like frogs at +/- 60%. Good luck with the conservation of a fine dagger!

[MEADE]

Handed down through the family I have come to be the owner of a dagger resembling the one pictured above. Since you have experience with this particular weapon I was wondering if you could take a look at the one I have and tell me if it is an original piece or not. My Grandfather was stationed in Germany in WWII and I suspect that he brought it back with him on his last tour.


Pictures may be too poor in quality, if so let me know and I will try to get a higher quality shot. The handle is wood, but it is very dark due to how it was stored. The blade is drenched in oil so it most likely doesn't look in peak condition in the pictures. Please let me know something soon if you don't mind I'd really like to be able to tell the family if it is an authentic Nazi dagger.

Much thanks in advance,
Johnny

[Adrian Stevenson]

Hi Johnny, welcome to the forum!

It is a good original later production SA dagger. Having the leather hanger is a bonus.

Cheers, Ade.

[Larry C]

Hello feholder and welcome to the forum. You have nicely conditioned late RZM example. You can do one of two things to preserve the spread of the marking. let me point out first what it is causing it and where it is coming from. From what i can see you have 4 small marks equally spaced from each other on the blade and what that is is dirt and old grease or oil build up that has dried over time turning into verdigris. Verdigris is a cancer left unchecked will eventually eat through your blade over a long period of time. Now the 2 solutions are....#1 you can treat the blade by using semi Chrome polish and will remove some of the spotting,, and then polish it with Renwax which is a crystaline type of polish that hardens to an almost acrylic coating. After that nothing will stain it again. Most collectors use this aas i myself preserve and restore my daggers..........OR #2 if you have the patience and mechanical expertise ONLY,, you can take down the scabbard by removing the side screws and pullout the throat of the scabbard which are attached to runners inside. This is where the verdigris is building up on the high pinch points of the runners. These have to be cleaned with either Neverdull which is a great chrome polish and dirt remover or semi chrome and treated lastly with Renwax.....WOW sounds like alot right?? it is and its worth it,,, BUT it is not necessary to do this if you are not patient enough because it is quite tedious and will take about 2-3hrs to clean and restore the runners inside. Most collectors leave it well alone and choose my first option by just cleaning the blade and using Renwax on it. If you decide to go the 2nd route contact me first and i will tell you exactly what needs to be done. Looking at your SA it is really not bad at all just a few little marks. I have seen worse!! The biggest mistake anyone can make unknowingly is oiling the blade so it slides in the scabbard better. This is usually first thoughts and works well for a time but when the oil dries over time,, the end result is irremovable runner marks on the blade. Alot of Vets done this after returning from the war and as years passed so did the lubrication. Just like a car engine seizing up,,,EVERYTHING dries over time,, except the ocean... for now. You have a nice late example and maybe one day yoiu can add an early SA example to your collection as you will see a difference in material usage, that is better quality. Nice one Feholder regards Larry

[Larry C]

Hi Johnny, I agree with Ade,, it is an original example,,, a little crusty but real.

[MEADE]

Thank you very much! I appreciate the quick reply, I'm glad to know that my grandfather brought back an amazing piece of history. Does anyone know what the enscription on the blade means?

[Adrian Stevenson]

Hi Johnny, it means "All for Germany"

M7/36 is the makers code number for: E. & F. Horster, Solingen They were a well known dagger maker of the time.

Cheers, Ade.