SA / SS scabbard throat removal

[Bikaholic51]

Thanks for all this information. I am new to this site and was just researching my SA Dagger. It was Dads and I have been wondering if I should clean the blade. Knife slides into the Scabbard but not easy. There are marks on the blade from the rubbing of the runners. I think I will move ahead and clean the runners in the future. This blade has probably been removed from the scabard a total of less than 25 times since Dad returned from Germany. I remember having to clean what may have been dried blood from the top of the scabard and blade back in the late 50's so I could bring the dagger to school for show and tell. I am sure that would / could not happen today. The blade is an aesculap tuttlingen.

[Bikaholic51]

Here are some shots of my SA Dagger.



You can see the marks on the blade from the Scabbard Will post some after pics when I clean it up.

[Larry C]

Thanks for a very informative thread. I have done this on a dagger that someone else had tried to, the screws are very easy to deform, and they managed a good job of it. Made a very good deal for me, though.

I tried the link to the pinpoint oilers, and apparently it has already changed. I found them here.
Precision Oiler: Pinpoint Oilcan, Precision Oil Can, Oil Can with Nozzle

Thanks gents and thank you Roger for the Pin oiler update,,,Let me repeat myself,,as I dont want just anyone taking this upon themselves pulling their scabbards apart,,I dont want to send the wrong message,,,only if you feel you are patient and capable as this process is not for everyone.........
Bikaholic,,, very nice Aesculap and Thanks for posting it here. The choice is yours to clean it,, some collectors like to leave it be. If thats the original blackening in the motto,, I myself would just do my best to wipe down the blade and then treat the blade with some Renwax,, as seen on my SA runners thread. Your dagger is in decent condition and is normal to see an occasional smashed ball at the bottom of your lower scabbard fitting. What is really cool to see is the original 3 pc marching hanger and the whole rig is consistent in color and age. Also another plus to see is the first type "long nosed" nickel snap clip,, that attaches to the "D" ring on the belt loop on your rig. Aesculap is a common maker and on a rarity scale of 1-10 it is a "2",, but the quality this firm performed is A+.
On the back of the lower crossguard should be 2 stamped letters,, which would designate where this dagger was assigned to in Germany,, let us know what that would be!
There is alot of great people here on this forum that can help you with many other related questions you may have. Preservation is everything here. Regards Larry

[davejb]

Larry that was a very useful, informative thread and an excellent piece of restoration advice, all too often you see items that have been "messed" with rather than carefully and sympathetically dealt with, and if done properly does'nt interfere with the patina, historical value or the monetary value involved, as with like minded collectors i believe that historical items should be preserved in as original condition as possible, part of this belief is that items should be restored but only to the extent that, paintwork, markings etc, be left well alone, i consider that removing dust, dirt or grime from an item is acceptable provided it is post war, i see no reason why any item should not have dirt accumulated in an outhouse, garage or loft post war, carefully cleaned, or say a helmet liner restitched into its original form and carefully cleaned in order to preserve the leather from flaking away to dust or falling apart because of dryness. The idea of any collection is that it can be displayed in such a way that it could last for another 70 odd years or at least accumulate in value if its complete and well looked after. Over the years i think i have restitched and replaced original liners in their original helmets to the tune of over 60 total, including rectifying bad attempts at "restoration"

[Bikaholic51]

Thanks for the additional information Larry. I was wondering why the dagger had the extra loop on the handle. The marking on the back of the lower crossguard is Sw Information on what that means would be nice. I am making a file on this dagger. I will someday pass this on to my Son or Grandson to keep in the family.

Dad under Paton was in the invasion of Africa, Italy, and Germany. When the war was over they rotated back by how long you served. Dad was on the second boat back. I am sure he wanted to get the hell out of there since Paton wanted to move right on into Russia.

[Larry C]

Hi Bika,, "Sw" reresented SA Gruppe "Sudwest" or South west the region closest to Italy and Switzerland... Check out this thread on SA Gruppe marks and also take alook at post #17 there is a map of Germany divided into SA gruppe districts...SA Dienstdolch group markings. Regards Larry