Don't quote me! Grade school students learn it as part of penmanship; I think if a student develops a liking for calligraphy, then that can be learned in a shodo-juku [calligraphy studio] after school or on weekends. There are school calligraphy clubs and lots of calligraphy contests, local and national.
Some people develop a liking for calligraphy but get caught up in daily life, then later pursue the study after retiring.
A martial artist I know living in N. California, Hugh Davey, is a skilled calligrapher and has won contests in Japan. There may be other non-Japanese/Chinese/Korean who are skilled, but I've not yet seen another American as good as he. You can see some of his work on his
blog.
His work
無 "Mu" -- nothingness -- is shown below. His signature is
飛石 -- tobiseki -- Jumping Rock. [That might be pronounced Tobi'ishi, but I'm not certain.]
--Guy
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