Thank you! I've had very little chance to see/touch original untouched helmets and I do a bit of reenacting and am always curious as to what the exact correct color should be.
Thank you! I've had very little chance to see/touch original untouched helmets and I do a bit of reenacting and am always curious as to what the exact correct color should be.
Yes, the photography is extremely good. Lighting has everything to do with the shade... Natural lighting is best for a true color, but it also depends on your camera settings. Window lighting on an overcast day, on a neutral background with give the most lifelike results. I have found these hard to photograph and capture the way your eye sees it, but then again... that's a little bit different for everyone too.
As far as untouched helmets go, decades of sun fading could have an effect, and also was there a uniform color code on these, or did they differ slightly between batches?
I'm an idiot when it comes to camera settings. I set up my background outside on over cast days to cut down on sunlight glare. I typically use gray background for Heer helmets and a blue background for Luftwaffe. Sometimes white if it's not working out with the other colors.
Here's an example of blue background for Luftwaffe
Nice ;-)
It's for sure that the color of the background can reflect on the item and do a little something to the color, so for the sake of the cameras brain, very smart to stick with the same color cast background.
Settingwise... there's Auto, what they now call Ia, "intelligent Auto", definitely not my favorite setting unless trying to deal with indoor bulbs.
I would shoot in P, and find the "Daylight" setting, and sometimes go to "Cloudy" or "Shade" as required. The Daylight setting should figure it out pretty well when using natural light. Avoid sun (way too yellow), shade gets blue tints, early morning and later in the afternoon/evening gets reddish hues, like that gorgeous color you see around dusk sometimes.
This is all related to light temperature (read in Kelvins) and how it can effect the color of your shots. When always using natural light, you become sensitive to it.
If using a lightbox, experiment with your camera, but there again the A setting can do pretty well.
Larboard,
All good points and I play with a great deal of photography. As mentioned in another one of my threads though I do mostly handgun photos so I have my setup optimized for guns which are a little different than the helmets and unless stainless not as sensitive to the light setup. I use a photo box with 6 daytime lights staggered around them. Some of what I shoot most of the time.
Max
Nice, floating guns ;-) Love the wheelgun, really topnotch shot.
Very high Meg DSLR?
I shoot everything right now with a Canon 5D Mark III but I have an excellent assortment of lenses. For most of the helmet Photos I use either a 100mm Macro or a 180mm Macro. I also have one of the Canon 65 MP E macro lenses that will take 5X macro settings but getting the focus just right is crazy difficult. By floating the guns they leave no shadow and I simply have a stand that goes in the barrel and then using gimp I edit out the stand rod.by Larboard
Max
I don't want to post any incorrect helmets here nor do i want to highjack this thread, but since the conversation has gone this way, can i get opinions on whether or not this is the correct color for an m42?
This is what i reenact with.
I would say the color is about right for a late war Field Gray.I don't want to post any incorrect helmets here nor do i want to highjack this thread, but since the conversation has gone this way, can i get opinions on whether or not this is the correct color for an m42?
This is what i reenact with.
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