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Replacing broken pin on an enamel NSDAP party badge

Article about: There is a transitional RZM period party badge I've came across that I can get quite cheaply. Problem is, the pin is broken. The round mounting plate is still present, as well as a small pie

  1. #1

    Default Replacing broken pin on an enamel NSDAP party badge

    There is a transitional RZM period party badge I've came across that I can get quite cheaply. Problem is, the pin is broken. The round mounting plate is still present, as well as a small piece of the original pin. I've read about people replacing broken pins on these badges, and I am curious how it is done. Is the mounting plate soldered or glued on? Where might I be able to obtain a new pin? It doesn't necessarily have to be a period pin, that would be great, but even a modern pin that's the same design as an original period would satisfy me.

    Thanks everyone for the help!

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  3. #2
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    A picture is a must for any advice.

  4. #3

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    Pin plates are soldered onto the badge. It can be done, obviously, but carefully and not by me. If you're capable, a hobby grade soldering iron should do the job well.

    To offer an opinion on your badge, it must be posted as SteveR eluded to.

    Mark
    In this world there's two kinds of people, my friend. Those with loaded guns, and those who dig. You dig. CE

  5. #4

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    Here are photos of the badge. I know it's in rough shape, but I can get it cheap enough that it doesn't matter. It'll look good with my other "been there" pieces. Also I would like to see what I can do restoration wise, just a little project. Restoring old jewelry is a hobby of mine, and these badges are essentially jewelry. I'd say I can make it look a lot better with some work, buff off all that messy glue and such. I'm fairly good at soldering, and I do have a soldering iron. I'm more interested in finding a cheap replacement pin 2 or 3 bucks that matches the original style. I'd hate to just put a ghetto looking safety pin in there.




    So the pin plate is soldered on. Well, that should just me a matter of heating it to the melting point, removing it, put a new pin in, and resolder.

    Thanks for the replies fellas.

  6. #5
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    It looks nice from the front! Personally, I'd just remove the glue on the back and leave it as-is, but actually, some do prefer to replace the pins. As for the replacement pin, I'd look around on eBay or something for a cheap postwar German pin of some type and use the pin from that. Many manufacturers used the same type of pin plate after the war.

  7. #6

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    Quote by Erno View Post
    It looks nice from the front! Personally, I'd just remove the glue on the back and leave it as-is, but actually, some do prefer to replace the pins. As for the replacement pin, I'd look around on eBay or something for a cheap postwar German pin of some type and use the pin from that. Many manufacturers used the same type of pin plate after the war.
    I think I'm going to buy this badge on eBay, $4.99 shipped, and remove the pin from it. The pin design 'looks' the same, but I'm now wondering if the pins on the NSDAP enamel badges are actually a part of the mounting plate. I believe the pin just slides into the raised groove right down the middle of the pin plate but I can't be sure.

    Last edited by RailwayEagle; 04-22-2014 at 02:39 PM. Reason: Forgot picture

  8. #7

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    I had one come loose once. I have done soldering in my work as a gunsmith here in my shop. So I thought I would try it. It came out well for me. The key is not too much heat and a low temp solder. The hardest part is centering it and using a very small torch tip to reduce heated area. I would Recommend a soldering gun to those who has not done a lot of this. It is like trying to solder on your finger nail.
    Just my thoughts on this.

    John
    I specialize in M1 carbines and Lugers.

  9. #8

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    Quote by guns ltd View Post
    I had one come loose once. I have done soldering in my work as a gunsmith here in my shop. So I thought I would try it. It came out well for me. The key is not too much heat and a low temp solder. The hardest part is centering it and using a very small torch tip to reduce heated area. I would Recommend a soldering gun to those who has not done a lot of this. It is like trying to solder on your finger nail.
    Just my thoughts on this.

    John
    I'm hoping my soldering iron will work on this. I don't want to have to invest money into tools since I'm trying to save money by buying a badge with a broken pin and replacing it. I haven't ordered the badge yet, having second thoughts about it now though.

  10. #9

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    I think you'll be fine with cleaning the glue off and putting a similar pin back onto the badge. Personally, I'd look for a closer match, there's no rush

    The badge has a nice obverse, good find.

    Mark
    In this world there's two kinds of people, my friend. Those with loaded guns, and those who dig. You dig. CE

  11. #10

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    Quote by Greenhorn View Post
    I think you'll be fine with cleaning the glue off and putting a similar pin back onto the badge. Personally, I'd look for a closer match, there's no rush

    The badge has a nice obverse, good find.

    Mark
    Waiting for the PayPal invoice from the seller right now ; I imagine the badge will look better in person, the camera flash really brings out every little scratch, nick, and imperfection in the enamel. I mainly want it because it's a transitional period badge.

    I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for a good replacement pin.

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