Rebuild project: Authentic German Helmet shell?

[General Patton]

Hello everyone, i decided that im going to built a German helmet. by that i mean im going to buy each piece individually. here is a shell i have been looking at. my questions are, is it authentic, what is the cost of an original ww2 liner, and original ww2 chin strap (optional for me)? and here is the description from the web site:

"A large original M40 shell. It is size/maker stamped HKP66 and with the batch number 31485. The shell has remnants of old Luftwaffe colored blue paint. There is no trace of decals. A solid shell with no cracks or dings."

i will post the picture of the other shell i was looking at as a comment as well.

[General Patton]

Here is the other helmet im looking at. what do you guys think? are they both original? which is more valuable? is there a difference in the color, by that i mean one is green and the other is blue, does the helmets color indicate its main faction so to say (army, air force, artillery, anti aircraft, ETC.) and what is the cost for original WW2 German helmet rivets on the helmet?
here is the description for the other helmet:

"Another large original M40 shell. This one is size/maker stamped ET66. The helmet has remnants of old green brushed on paint. The shell has light surface corrosion and is solid with no cracks or dings. Useable as it is or possibly a good project helmet - an original large ET66 M40 shell."

as always, thank you for the help!

[ObKrieger]

Both shells look good to me. I wouldn't recommend making any permanent modifications to them like removing paint, etc.

The green one looks like a field repaint. Some collectors would refer to this as being a 'camo' helmet. As for the branch, it could have been in any of them depending on its specific use. There are camos and repaints of every kind of helmet. The LW one looks like it might have a trace of a single decal.

[Schwerpunkt]

I think this topic belongs more in the restoration forum. Building your own German helmet when you can buy them complete seems a bit ... awkward.

[davejb]

Your idea of a complete rebuild is something that a few have done in the past, but there are certain things you have to weigh up before you start, 1,cost of shell, 2 cost of original liner and ring, 3 cost of original chin strap, 4 cost of original 1940-41 liner pins plus washers, the two most expensive items will be the liner and chin strap once you have obtained the shell, if you are prepared for all the costs involved , fine, but then there is the question of complete originality, all the items will or should be genuine but not original to the helmet shell, this can affect the resale value if you come to sell at a later date, then there is the question of trying to match the wear of the liner to the helmets condition, its no use getting a good looking little wear liner that doesnt match the overall look to the helmet, again trying to match colours of the pins to the helmet shade, these are the things that you should consider, having done all this would the cost of putting these pieces together outweigh the cost of a complete original untouched helmet in the same condition

[ppsh33]

Your idea of a complete rebuild is something that a few have done in the past, but there are certain things you have to weigh up before you start, 1,cost of shell, 2 cost of original liner and ring, 3 cost of original chin strap, 4 cost of original 1940-41 liner pins plus washers, the two most expensive items will be the liner and chin strap once you have obtained the shell, if you are prepared for all the costs involved , fine, but then there is the question of complete originality, all the items will or should be genuine but not original to the helmet shell, this can affect the resale value if you come to sell at a later date, then there is the question of trying to match the wear of the liner to the helmets condition, its no use getting a good looking little wear liner that doesnt match the overall look to the helmet, again trying to match colours of the pins to the helmet shade, these are the things that you should consider, having done all this would the cost of putting these pieces together outweigh the cost of a complete original untouched helmet in the same condition

hi , sound advise , less trouble a cheaper in the long run to purchase an original non decal helmet ....cheers paul

[Walkwolf]

I agree with the above comments, however, if you do want to persue this,
I'd say go for the 2nd one, as the first seems to have had most of it's
original paint removed.

Just my two cents..........

( Complete original liners can be $125 to $200 or so, and a chinstrap
between $100 and $200, and rivets about $20, so when you add it
all up, it really does make more sense to buy a good, untouched
helmet for about the same price ! The only way to do it cheaper
is to buy repro parts, but then you end up with a repro lid ! )