Nice looking K98. Wish I could buy them like I use too. 200.00 or less. how many do you want. back in my younger years i remember seeing fiber barrels full of them at our local K-Mart stores. Oh those days are gone.
John
Nice looking K98. Wish I could buy them like I use too. 200.00 or less. how many do you want. back in my younger years i remember seeing fiber barrels full of them at our local K-Mart stores. Oh those days are gone.
John
I specialize in M1 carbines and Lugers.
As said a untouched k98. A really nice find all matching 98's are at a premium right now and price are steadily going up. Marty
Last edited by Tank Destroyer; 11-12-2015 at 06:24 PM.
Fortune favors the brave 644th td
The only other question I have is, I checked with the seller he says the barrel band spring (thing that holds on both barrel bands is unnumbered) I know the Germans were wicked OCD with marking everything early on. Is an unmarked one correct? Or a factory depot replacement?
Checked my 1940 Borsigwalde Danny. No stamped no. on mine either. I know yours is made earlier in 38 and could not find more info. My books states that a 10 inch rod should be correct for a S/42 1938. Mine is a 12 incher and un-numbered. Read on Gun Board Forum that cleaning rods were stamped or numbered until 1941 so my rod was probably switched during the war as a couple rods were necessary to clean bore. Well hope things go well and you score it.
Hmmm. Got to keep diggin on that info. Changes as the war progressed were done I know. Of course my barrel band are stamped. Nice touch having the sling on yours. Original sling on mine is stamped L&F on metal adj. tab. Think it stands for Linden and Funk.
v/nice K98.
It's like this old timer I use to know would say "I remember when land was a dollar an acre... and nobody had a dollar!"
The stock on this rifle looks ok. If you're going to pay top dollar for an all matching non import mark 98 and you can't tell a sanded stock, watch out...
There's a lot more to watch out on a 98k than the stock. I've had many rifles with varnished stock, (some factory varnished, Ruger, Winchester, Norinco/Romy AK, etc) that I've stripped, steel wooled the crap out of, and then Tung oiled that you could never tell from a factory or original finish. Personally, I only really like an oil finish on a rifle stock which is why I do it. Poly or Sparvar finishes only obscure wood grain, and look terrible when they cloud up or get nicked up.
I guess what I'm saying is that it's not what's been done to something, it's how it's been done. If it's been done well and with care, the average person can't tell.
Personally I'd rather have on that's actual WWI dated if I was going to spend this kind of money, but this is pretty close.
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