M1 Carbine newbie...

[AmericanKraut]

I have a IBM very similar that gizmo and I talked about. I will post on my collection later, almost the same Im in a predicament tho because I want to replace the bayo lug does anyone know where to get original barrel bands and if certain ones are for certain makes? I cannot put myself to replace the sight because it is actually pretty acurate with the second version and from my readings later IBMs had the second model sight? -Ben

[MarkV]

There are some sources for original parts - but there are also lots of humpers selling fakes. I'll need to know the serial number of your carbine to give you an idea of what would be a properly marked barrel band. I assume you are talking about the rear sight when you mention replacing it - it might be that the sight you hvae is the correct one, again depending on the SN.

Just as a warning, removing and replacing the barrel band will require that you remove the front sight. It can be done without a sight removal tool (I've done one without and one with). Also, be aware that when you remove the Type III band, the barrel may be significantly lighter in color since it has not been exposed to the same level of dirt, grime, oil and exposure.

I'll be home a little late this evening but will try to check back in and see if you've put up any pictures or the SN of your carbine.

[samnev]

Hi samnev,
The piston itself does move free, it's the nut itself that concerns me. I tighten it with the USGI piston nut wrench that I have, but the vibrations from a day of shooting cause it to back out. I'm not sure if my gunsmith will be willing to pin it down, or if i should apply the smallest amount of low strength loctite...

If the GI piston wrench did not tighten the nut there are several possibilities that are causing the problem.
1. You did not put enough torque on the wrench *Unlikely*
2. Either the threads on the nut or the female receptacle it screws into (gas block) is worn. * Possible*
3. The piston nut is undersized. * Possible. Worn?*

If it were my M1 the first thing I would do is get another piston nut SARCO or GUN PARTS is a good source. See if that cures the problem. If not then its may be the gas block.

If the gas block is worn then I would try what you suggested only I would use Red Loc-tite as it is much stronger. If that doesn't work you are looking at pining the gas plug or replacing the barrel assembly.

In any case perhaps others may have additional steps you could take to cure the problem. I have several M1 carbines in my collection but I have never run into this problem before. Either with mine or anyone in my shooting circle.

Good luck in getting you Carbine fixed.
Sam

[MarkV]

Sam,

The nuts were staked at the factory so my guess with Joes is that it's loosened and now won't seat without restaking. His has a small threaded hole in it that indicates to me that someone tried to tap it and put a lock screw in. I gave Joe a good source for a USGI piston nut also.

Mark

[GIZMO8Z]

Hi Mark,

I took a closer look and I was wrong... there is a small hole, but it isn't threaded.

[samnev]

Mark,
What doesn't make sense to me is why the piston nut would work its way loose in the first place unless some Bubba went to work on it for some reason and screwed it up. Either that or some gas cutting exacerbated the the looseness and made the situation worse. I've seen gas cutting on punctured primers ruin a bolt (opened up the firing pin hole) on rifles, machine guns and pistols.

Sam

[GIZMO8Z]

Hi Sam,

I've done a quick google search and it seems like a common problem....

[MarkV]

Sam,

After all these years, sometimes they just wear a bit and, depending on the depth of the stake, just back off fro the pressure of firing. We all get looser as we age. lol

Mark

[MarkV]

Here's a picture showing what you might be dealing with if you opt to remove the type III barrel band. On the top is my Inland - you cansee the light area on the barrel where the old band covered it. I'm slowly working on darkening that area. Of my 3, this is the only one I've played with - it now has all correct SN appropriate parts. In the middle is my National Postal meter - my first carbine. It was 99% correct when I bought it - the stock was obviously sanded and refinished making the cartouches light but readable. At $450 I stumbled into a bargain. On the bottom is my Rockola. I have a correct barrel band to replace the Type III but just can't bring myself to play with it.

[GIZMO8Z]

Here's a picture showing what you might be dealing with if you opt to remove the type III barrel band. On the top is my Inland - you cansee the light area on the barrel where the old band covered it. I'm slowly working on darkening that area. Of my 3, this is the only one I've played with - it now has all correct SN appropriate parts. In the middle is my National Postal meter - my first carbine. It was 99% correct when I bought it - the stock was obviously sanded and refinished making the cartouches light but readable. At $450 I stumbled into a bargain. On the bottom is my Rockola. I have a correct barrel band to replace the Type III but just can't bring myself to play with it.

Beautiful rifles, Mark!

I think my gas piston nut problem is being blown out of proportion here... Each time I have shot my carbine, I'd put at least 50rnds thru her... sometimes as much as 150. The nut would back out maybe 1 or 2 turns, but NEVER completely. After each cleaning, I'd used my fingers to tighten the gas piston nut as much as possible. I have a USGI gas piston wrench, but up until recently, it was COVERED in cosmoline and I never used it. I recently cleaned the wrench and will now use it every time!

If I ever have a major problem with my IBM which causes me to rebuild it, I think I'd try to make it match original spec. In fact, I'd LOVE to put a Lumb stock on her... I just found out that Lumb was also a company from my home town, Poughkeepsie, NY. (IBM made their carbines in Poughkeepsie... which was a major factor for me buying this), AND my buddy Dan's grandpa was the shop foreman at Lumb during wartime!