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M-38 Helmet

Article about: I've had this helmet for years now, it had been repainted and a silly decal added. The paint had started to craze, and flake badly. It looked awful. I tried stripping it to find it's origina

  1. #1

    Default M-38 Helmet

    I've had this helmet for years now, it had been repainted and a silly decal added.

    The paint had started to craze, and flake badly. It looked awful.

    I tried stripping it to find it's original paint work, but does did seem that this was fully removed, very sad actually.

    So a good few years ago, I had a decent liner/chin strap made for it with the thought of cleaning it up properly.

    I had it sand blasted as a filler had been used to cover the pitting (?).

    There was nowt else I could do really and I do like the natural look

    A crack was revealed and this had also been covered up, so the sand blasting did do it's job. It's history was coming back.

    So what should with it?, I do believe it's a genuine rusty M-38, needing some TLC.

    What do you reckon Ade?
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture M-38 Helmet   M-38 Helmet  

    M-38 Helmet   M-38 Helmet  

    M-38 Helmet   M-38 Helmet  

    M-38 Helmet   M-38 Helmet  

    M-38 Helmet  

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  3. #2

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    As you say, an original shell.

    I think I would leave it as is too.

    Cheers, Ade.
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  4. #3
    M38
    M38 is offline
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    Agree with Ade, but can you still see the stampings in the steel? The size/maker stamp and the lot number stamp would help to confirm it is an original shell. Did the wire come on it or did you add it?

    Not the best repro liner/strap combo and it does nothing for the overall look. Personally I'd leave those off the display. They add nothing to the appearance, and in fact distract. What might be better would be to put some real or good repro aluminum bolts in it for display purposes on the shelf.

    Cheers,
    Terry

  5. #4

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    Might be tempting to paint it in original Luftwaffe RAL colour, as it has none at the moment. Nice relic.

  6. #5

    Default

    Ade/Terry, the wire came from another helmet, so no problems there.

    The first picture to the inside left, as you see it, with the second picture, inside rear, the pitting has taken it's toll.

    Are these the correct places to look?

    Who does the best repo liner's? or where can I get a original piece if possible?

    I was thinking of just having it sprayed apple green..
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture M-38 Helmet   M-38 Helmet  

    Last edited by The Devil's Bank; 09-04-2017 at 03:22 PM.

  7. #6
    M38
    M38 is offline
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    The maker stamp would be either on the left side below the rolled rim on the inside, or in the rear, below the rolled rim. The lot number would be in the rear below the rolled rim. If the maker mark is on the side it will say something like ET68. If in the rear, it will be something like ckl 71 over a 4 digit number such as 4500.

    There are some good repro liners and straps that a guy on ebay lists for sale from time to time. There is also a guy who makes them by hand but I don't remember right now who that is. I'll see if I can find it. But really, this is a heavily rusted shell and it probably is better to leave it as is, unpainted and no liner. It is what it is and is a relic in its own right. Any new looking liner or paint is only going to make it look fake I think. Better to have an original relic than a doctored up mixed lot. It will not look bad sitting on a shelf if you put a set of bolts in it to fill the bolt holes. You can find good repro aluminum bolts on ebay as well.

    Cheers,
    Terry

  8. #7

    Default

    Cheers Terry, much appreciated, you too Ade.

    I've had good look with a magnifying glass and I can't see any thing to be honest.

    Please try and find the guy who makes the liners, (got a thing for them at the moment )

    Just for reference, what's wrong with the bolts that's already on the helmet?

    Thanks for your kind help Terry.

  9. #8

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    I am thinking the shell may not be the real thing. No crease in the rolled rim & a "seam" in the rim I am not familiar with

  10. #9

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    What would the "crease in the rolled rim" look like mate?

  11. #10

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    It's an obvious line that runs in the middle of the folded over rim which is due to the production method of rolling the rim. Maybe the sand blasting has removed signs of it.

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