Heer by Eickhorn with type 3 crossguard.

[Grofaz45]

Hi,
Had this on layaway for a while and finally received it today it's a nicely patinated Eickhorn with what I believe to be the scarce Eickhorn type 3 crossguard, apart from some slight bubbling of the plating it seems to be in really nice condition with crossgrain all the way down the blade and a lovely needle tip. Your opinions welcome.
This dagger seems to me to match well with dagger 22 on pages 72/73 in Ger Hessels and Danny Rieske's book (HEERESDOLCHE a reference guide for collectors) If you don't have this book and you collect Heer Daggers try to get it, it's a invaluable reference that I for one couldn't do without now.
Regards, Andy.

[dr73]

That's a beautiful army dagger! As you said, textbook all the way. Congratulations!

Regards
Danny

[gerrit]

That's a beautiful army dagger! As you said, textbook all the way. Congratulations!

Regards
Danny

+1

Nothing more to add!
Lovely!

Ger

[Grofaz45]

Hi, Thanks for your replies I am so pleased with this one it was listed with several other Eickhorn Heer daggers and the photos on the dealers site weren't great but after cross checking the crossguard with your book and studying the poor photos I was sure it was a type 3 and after a quick chat about what Santa might bring me this year with the misses I grabbed it quick, all the others were type 4 and priced higher than this piece.
This is what it looks like now as it's going under the tree for Christmas day, the wife allowed me to give it a quick inspection to check it over when it arrived so I took these photos quickly before she took it away and wrapped it up, now I have to be very good boy or Santa won't come

[Larry C]

Judging by the wrapping paper there must be Forestry knife in there.

[Grofaz45]

Yeah she could have got some with squirrels on it, still I'm not complaining about my Christmas present this year it beats socks!

Judging by the wrapping paper there must be Forestry knife in there.

[Merrydoc]

Great Dagger Grofaz and amazing Photos

[Grofaz45]

Hi Merrydoc, I wouldn't put oil on a dagger as it tends to attract dust and grit and can cause damage to the blade finish, for Daggers many collectors myself included use Renwax applied sparingly with a soft cloth and then allowed to dry for a minute or two then buff up with a clean soft cloth it will clean off dirt without damaging the finish and leaves a protective coating after cleaning and that's all I ever do to mine. I check my blades regularly to see if any problems are arising and probably wax them again once a year but if the blade gets touched by bare fingers wipe it down again with a little wax. Renwax can be used on just about anything and was developed for the British Museum for preservation use on many types of object including metal, wood, leather and paper. Obviously if you had a badly stained or rusted blade you would need to use something more abrasive like Autosol metal polish then the Renwax treatment but always get advice before attempting to clean a rough blade with metal polish use only tiny amounts rubbed lightly and in the same direction as any crossgrain that might be present (metal polish will remove crossgrain if you're not careful!). Hope this helps others will have other tips I'm sure. I have attached photos of a tin of Renwax so you know what to look for. Regards, Andy.

Great Dagger Grofaz and amazing Photos

I got a Question about the maintenance. Do you Guys just clean the Blade a couple times a Year with Oil/Fat and the Fittings and Scabbard as well? On my Bayonets i am using Balistol oil 1-2 Times a Year for Protection, but i am unsure About Daggers. Any Tipps are appreciated.

[Merrydoc]

Hi Merrydoc, I wouldn't put oil on a dagger as it tends to attract dust and grit and can cause damage to the blade finish, for Daggers many collectors myself included use Renwax applied sparingly with a soft cloth and then allowed to dry for a minute or two then buff up with a clean soft cloth it will clean off dirt without damaging the finish and leaves a protective coating after cleaning and that's all I ever do to mine. I check my blades regularly to see if any problems are arising and probably wax them again once a year but if the blade gets touched by bare fingers wipe it down again with a little wax. Renwax can be used on just about anything and was developed for the British Museum for preservation use on many types of object including metal, wood, leather and paper. Obviously if you had a badly stained or rusted blade you would need to use something more abrasive like Autosol metal polish then the Renwax treatment but always get advice before attempting to clean a rough blade with metal polish use only tiny amounts rubbed lightly and in the same direction as any crossgrain that might be present (metal polish will remove crossgrain if you're not careful!). Hope this helps others will have other tips I'm sure. I have attached photos of a tin of Renwax so you know what to look for. Regards, Andy.

Thank you very much!

[rbminis]

Hi Merrydoc, I wouldn't put oil on a dagger as it tends to attract dust and grit and can cause damage to the blade finish, for Daggers many collectors myself included use Renwax applied sparingly with a soft cloth and then allowed to dry for a minute or two then buff up with a clean soft cloth it will clean off dirt without damaging the finish and leaves a protective coating after cleaning and that's all I ever do to mine. I check my blades regularly to see if any problems are arising and probably wax them again once a year but if the blade gets touched by bare fingers wipe it down again with a little wax. Renwax can be used on just about anything and was developed for the British Museum for preservation use on many types of object including metal, wood, leather and paper. Obviously if you had a badly stained or rusted blade you would need to use something more abrasive like Autosol metal polish then the Renwax treatment but always get advice before attempting to clean a rough blade with metal polish use only tiny amounts rubbed lightly and in the same direction as any crossgrain that might be present (metal polish will remove crossgrain if you're not careful!). Hope this helps others will have other tips I'm sure. I have attached photos of a tin of Renwax so you know what to look for. Regards, Andy.

I can't agree more, well said.
Ralph.