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Cut-down m1864 Faschinenmesser

Article about: I picked up this m1864 faschinenmesser at an estate sale during the last day, so for half-off day it was only \\$75. It's in pretty good shape, with only some damage to the hilt and some activ

  1. #1

    Default Cut-down m1864 Faschinenmesser

    I picked up this m1864 faschinenmesser at an estate sale during the last day, so for half-off day it was only $75.

    It's in pretty good shape, with only some damage to the hilt and some active rust to the blade, which needs to be taken care of. I'm not sure why the notch is on the back of the hilt it there, but I'm thinking it may be symbolic of something to the soldier who had it.

    The blade itself is about 10.5 inches, as opposed to the 17¼ it used to be.

    I plan on preserving it with the steps presented here: Sword Forum International - CONSERVING ANTIQUE SWORDS by Mark McMorrow June 17, 2001 · Revised July 18, 2001 , but I'm a bit unsure of the use of brass wool. Is the brass wool (or substitute) to be used for the removal of rust with a gradual circular motion, as if it were a cotton swab?

    Also, are there any steps I can take to further prevent any rust damage before I start the actual process of preservation, or will it be fine for a few days before I get the materials needed?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the help,
    John
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Perspectivist; 07-01-2014 at 03:48 AM.

  2. #2
    ?

    Default

    Nice find, especially at that price! I have no idea why it would have been cut down, except for use as a fighting knife. I don't believe that there is a lot of information readily available for faschinenmessers.

    As far as the link you posted, it is a very good article on preservation. CLP is a very good product for rust removal and preservation. Flitz is also a good finishing product, I use both. I would apply the CLP and let it soak into the rust, keeping it "wet" for a few day's, then LIGHTLY scrub at the rust with 0000 steel wool. You will be able to tell when to stop, as you will feel the roughness go away under the steel wool. I keep the steel wool wet with CLP throughout the rust removing process. Once it is smooth to the touch, I wipe it down and apply some Flitz and polish in small circular motions. once the entire blade has been done polish it out with a soft cotton cloth.

    If done prperly, all the active rust will have been removed and the surface will have been sealed against further rust in normal conditions. Put some ren-wax on it every few years and you should not have any more problems.

    Jim

    p.s.
    are there any markings or proof marks on it?

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the help!

    Unfortunately, there are no proof marks that I can see.

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