Article about: Hi everyone, hope you are all well. I'm just after confirmation that this is an original WW2 Economy Badge. I am going to be putting this in the classifieds (as i now have two) and want to m
I'm just after confirmation that this is an original WW2 Economy Badge. I am going to be putting this in the classifieds (as i now have two) and want to make sure it is genuine before selling it so no-one gets a duff item.
Markings on back read A.Stanley & Sons, Walsall.
Looks good to me and not being a rare regiment i think its real, but i know there are people with more knowledge on them than me.
Thank you, i didn't want to list something that's not 100%. Do you have any tips on how to identify fake cap badges? Or can recommend any good reference books?
Looks fine, and there appears to be a few different moulds for these by Stanley, as mine is different and I have another in the post to me which is different to yours as well, but all by Stanley who were the only known maker of these for the RE and made a total of 762,456 RE badges.
Looks fine, and there appears to be a few different moulds for these by Stanley, as mine is different and I have another in the post to me which is different to yours as well, but all by Stanley who were the only known maker of these for the RE and made a total of 762,456 RE badges.
I'm not sure there are any good books on Fake detection for British badges, there are plenty of books on identifying them, with the two volumes by Kipling and King being considered as being the "bible" on such items. Probably the best thing is the same for any subject, study up on originals and if items do not match them, then 99.9% of the time they will be iffy.
For the plastic badges, though fakes exist they always look very wrong on the reverse and in the hand feel wrong as well, though from the front in just a picture they can look OK.
For other badges, make sure they match known originals in terms of the design, the type of fixing, as sometimes they should only be found with lugs for instance, and then either only at top and bottom or side to side and if these are incorrect then walk away. Also, if it is a metal badge and the edges feel sharp, then it is probably a fake.
Two sensibly priced books on WWI and WWII badges are these, which have a section on construction, though as I mentioned above do not deal specifically on fake identification.
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