Real or reproduction NCO sword?

**Gakusei** · 11-30-2012, 05:55 AM

Hello all, a friend of mine has just inherited this and seeing as he isn't a tech savy type I'm doing some research for him. All I can tell you about it is that has been sitting in his dad's closet for 30 years. From what I've read the leather scabbard isn't right and some markings are missing off the pommel. There are matching serial numbers on the blade and scabbard though. Any help in ID would be appreciated.

Edit: Did some digging and got more back story. Is apparently genuine. It was given to my friends father when he turned 21 in 1967 by his uncle who served in WWII. It was in poor condition and it was my friends father who decided to repaint the handle and cover the dinted scabbard with leather.

**Gakusei** · 11-30-2012, 08:54 AM

Anyone think it's possible that this was "restored" i.e. handle repainted including copper color paint over where the stampings are and black paint over the scabbard serial numbers, plus wrapping the metal in leather? Edit: It was, see first post.

**Walkwolf** · 11-30-2012, 09:03 AM

Hello, welcome to the Forum.

You could be correct about it's lack of markings - to me it also looks too 'new',
but I am not an authority by any means. Be patient. The guys who do
know will certainly drop by and tell you.........

**Gakusei** · 11-30-2012, 08:45 PM

OK, we have a new question. Is it worth getting this un-restored i.e. removing the leather from the sheath and trying to uncover the stampings that have been painted over?

**Adrian** · 11-30-2012, 09:03 PM

Welcome to the forum.

Don't be in too much of a hurry to do anything yet. There are many people here who will be along shortly to tell you exactly what you have and what the best thing to do with it is. Find out what it is, real or repro and listen to the advice of the knowledegable members here.

**harryamb2** · 11-30-2012, 09:11 PM

good advice, slow down and listern

**TNcollector** · 12-01-2012, 01:43 AM

The blade looks to be in good shape, does it have matching number the other serial number should be on the throat of the scabbard? If it were mine I would take the leather cover off of the scabbard as I have never seen an type 95 NCO with this only on other Commissioned Officers swords like the type 98. I would also be tempted to repaint the handle by looking at photos of a nice orginal one. I have a similar type 95 I have posted photos of here on the forum that will show you what the handle paint is supposed to look like. I am no expert by any means, so that being said wait for other more knowledgeable people to reply before you do any thing to the sword. It maybe some strange type I am unaware of but I have a feeling it is a bubba job. It has alot of potential to be a nice sword with a little time and work. Cheers, Robert

**Gakusei** · 12-01-2012, 03:02 AM

The scabbard does have a matching serial number. It's hidden under the black paint, but can be read if you catch the light with it.

**Stu W** · 12-01-2012, 03:23 AM

At first glance this appears to be a Type 95 Imperial Japanese Army NCO sword. As you mentioned in your initial post the serial number on the blade matches that on the scabbard. That's a good sign. As these do not normally have a combat (leather) cover the story of how it came to be on the scabbard (saya) makes some sense as does the paint job on the handle (tsuka).

Before doing anything to the sword or saya take a few minutes and read over this thread ...

IJA Type 95 NCO Sword Info

Once done begin to compare features and see what you are able to determine on your own.

Don't attempt to dismantle anything at this stage.

Let me know the manner in which the leather cover has been put in place. Glued seams? Stitched seams? Friction fit? Other?

Last but not least, don't start painting. That's going from bad to worse IMHO. Most modern repaints I've run across have been done with Latex paint and are easily removed through a range of actions such as simple rubbing to applications of cream or liquid based strippers. The original finish is quite hardy and can withstand most modest attempts to remove overcoats. However, the handle (tsuka) is made of aluminum so not all strippers are suitable. Something to consider before starting down that road. Testing a tiny area, by applying a drop of the cleaner/stripper with a cotton swab such as a Q-tip to an area not normally viewed, is the appropriate way to begin if that course of action is decided upon.

One step at a time is the way to go.

Regards,
Stu

**Gakusei** · 12-01-2012, 05:43 AM

I think it might be one of these.

The cover seems to have been wrapped around and stitched together, and with some light pressure we managed to slide it down a little. The tsuka has a chip in the paint at the top and it is clearly aluminum.