Colour scheme for 88mm AP shell head

[Gary J]

I'm looking for the basic colour scheme of an 88mm AP shell head for a refurb.

The shell did have some small traces of bright red on the main body section, but I would like to paint it in an original WW2 type scheme.

Any help would be greatfully appreciated.

Gary J.

[Zom8ie99]

i believe they were solid black with a light grey tip, but i could be mistaken

[Zom8ie99]

iv found this if its anyhelp, however i have seen ap shells with a grey tip instead of white (tho this may have just been lighting)

http://www.worldwar2aces.com/panzer-...ak-88-5114.jpg

[big ned]

All Black with a plain Aluminium ballistic cap. The red paint would be the letters/numbers stencilled on it. I have seen them painted with grey and white caps, but I reckon that's possibly from folks these days seeing B&W photo's and assuming this.

[spotter]

The following images are from a Russian document dated 1946

[Gary J]

Excellent Chaps !
Many Thanks for ALL the help.

Gary J.

[Hosa]

Depends on the type you got (big fuze, small fuze) and/or the type you want to depict.
Don't take the russian manual as a guide, it's not very accurate.

If it's a Pzgr 39 (small fuze, and it probably is), the paint it a glossy black, with a 40 mm high WHITE tip.
Facotrycodes should be 10 mm high and red, explosivecode 20mm and red.
Code for drivingband (FES in your case) should 20 mm high and white.

Leave the drivingbands unpainted, and make sure that the area beneath the drivingbands is painted with asphaltlack, which can often be found in artshops (i think they use it for etching).

Good luck !

[big ned]

Depends on the type you got (big fuze, small fuze) and/or the type you want to depict.
Don't take the russian manual as a guide, it's not very accurate.

If it's a Pzgr 39 (small fuze, and it probably is), the paint it a glossy black, with a 40 mm high WHITE tip.
Facotrycodes should be 10 mm high and red, explosivecode 20mm and red.
Code for drivingband (FES in your case) should 20 mm high and white.

Leave the drivingbands unpainted, and make sure that the area beneath the drivingbands is painted with asphaltlack, which can often be found in artshops (i think they use it for etching).

Good luck !

You need to drop by more often old chap!

[Gary J]

Hosa,
Many thanks for the update ....
I'm going to go with the glossy black/white tip.

Cheers

Gary J.

[Matt L]

Not gloss black though- I don't know why people use that on everything from airplanes to ammunition, but I'll bet no military item in history was glossy; shiny is bad in a war LOL I have a beautifully preserved original 8,8cm Pzgr 39/1 right here in my collection and it's at most 'eggshell'; the white nose paint is a little under 3cm long and the markings are often red, although sometimes they're white and I'm not sure what the difference is. There'd be a larger 'FES', usually in white, then a large number like '92' for the explosive filling (the code number), then some smaller text indicating who was responsible for the filling or fusing, for example 'Jg 7. 1. 42P'. Hosa has already pointed out a typical mistake 'restorations' make and that's to paint the driving bands- they were never painted because, of course, that'd lead to a buildup of paint in the gun's rifling! Below the bands was in the neck of the case and the asphaltum 'paint' there sealed the joint.