The Polish Rogatywka in Exile 1939 - 45/8

[robert odulinski]

Dear Collectors, I would like to propose a parallel thread to the one posted in the pre-WW2 forum covering the Polish Rogatywka of the exiled Polish Armed Forces period 1939 - 45/8. I intend to post up pictures of the hats that I own as well as write up a renovation project with pictures that I have currently undertaken to restore a Captains Engineers Rogatywka purchased last summer. I hope you will find this interesting and assist me in posting other examples of this iconic hat to add to an area of the hobby that has not yet been adequately covered for us collectors.

Many Thanks Rob

[robert odulinski]

The story thus far

Last summer on ebay I bought a rather dilapidated Rogatywka cap, captain rank, engineers denoted by a black velvet band. This cap with the Lock and Co. label had seen better days. I decided to get it restored, and having heard from another forum member that Lock had restored his hat I gave them a call. My journey of discovery had begun.

I had always presumed that the Holy Grail of Polish Rogatywki during the Second World War were the products of the Lock and Co. Hatters, still based in London located in James Street. I called them and much to my surprise I was informed that they did not restore military hats nor had they done so for many years. Nor did they have any access to any parts that may have been used in the construction. Hmmm, rather odd.

I was kindly given the number of the Imperial War Museums restoration department in London who recommended I call a company called Pateys, and a chap called Ian who had carried out restorations for many museums, private owners and the military.

After many missed appointments and phone calls I finally made my way down to South London to meet Ian, a charming man who is a mine of relevant and useful knowledge.

As I stepped into Pateys I was greeted most cordially and I began my discussion about the renovation. I had actually taken three of my hats to Ian, all Lock Rogs: my 1st Armoured Division captains Rog (the sweatband had come out), my lt. colonel Medical Officers Rog, and the above mentioned dilapidated engineers.

My first surprise was to discover that Lock had not made the caps.......surprise No. 1. Locke had not made any hats whether military or civilian for over a hundred years.

The possible makers of these hats could have been one of the following: Lyle and Kenning, Samuel Brothers, or Toy Kenning Spence. All three had been producing hats at this time.

Surprise No. 2 was that the work had characteristics of West African tailoring. They could have been made in any of the British West African Colonies....deep breath, sigh of incredulity.

Surprise No. 3 was when Ian produced a box of Locke and CO labels identical to the ones in my caps which proved his point rather successfully. In fact the box was taped up with genuine Lock and Co cellotape! Click image for larger version.

Ian said that the Rogatywki would most likely have varied in quality from a dress Rog No. 1 to general service wear No. 2/3. As he began to dismantle my caps with the precision of a surgeon I felt like I was under the surgeons knife myself. Ian informed me that the glues and techniques that Patey hats used were identical and very similar to the ones originally in period use and in no way were detrimental to the refurbishment, as he called it, of the cap not hat he was very clear on that issue.

Moreover this in no way prejudiced future preservations if needed. Music to my ears. We discussed the original beading stars and eagles that may have had at least 2% silver and I can imagine would have looked quite spectacular. He proceeded to clean some of it up - with of all things lighter fluid, lol.

I was informed that the inner lining was wax paper, now hardened and discoloured by hair pomade and general sweat. I had initially presumed this was some sort of early plastic. It's purpose was to keep the hat clear of the officers hair dressings. Unfortunately this lining material is no longer not available. Two of my hats still have it intact.

My caps ought to be completed in 8-weeks time at which time I will post up the finished results.

I have attached some pictures of the caps and the workshop with a huge thanks to Ian for his hospitality, knowledge and time.

(click on pictures to magnify)

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[A.J. Zawadzki]

Excellent post Robert . Thank you for sharing what many long time collectors may well consider earth shaking information that Lock & Co. Hatters was not the actual producer of these rogatywki, but rather farmed out production to sub-contractors.

I'm hoping that the hats are gently repaired where necessary to help preserve them and prevent further deterioration - but without compromising originality as best as possible. There's a fine line here. We all very much look forward to seeing the finished results.

Do you have any more "before" photos for us to see how the hats looked?

Cheers,
Tony

[robert odulinski]

Hi,

Attached are pictures of my first Rogatywka purchase some 7 years ago on ebay. The gentleman I bought it from was raising case for his sons university tuition. He bought it on the Portobello road Market many years ago as he liked the way it looked. No doubt for shillings and pence!!


It contains the coveted Lock label whom we now know acted as middle men in the purchase.

Note the coloured band is somewhat faded hence my mistake about the original unit.

[wadowicznic]

Robert
What I think is also v-interesting – is the fact that (i think) your Rogatywka has the very specific Eagle on it – post 1605.
As far as I know the Rogatywkas at Sikorski majority of them by “Lock… “ have this specific Eagle attached.
It is very characteristic Eagle with “bends of the shield”, blades and Gount’s markings


Polish Hat Eagles

Hi,

Attached are pictures of my first Rogatywka purchase some 7 years ago on ebay. The gentleman I bought it from was raising case for his sons university tuition. He bought it on the Portobello road Market many years ago as he liked the way it looked. No doubt for shillings and pence!!




It contains the coveted Lock label whom we now know acted as middle men in the purchase.

Note the coloured band is somewhat faded hence my mistake about the original unit.

[A.J. Zawadzki]

The revelation that Lock & Co Hatters subbed out their rogatywka production and then had their labeling applied before delivery to the customer may help explain this Medical Corps Captain in my collection. It is absolutely identical in construction, materials and the unique and distinctive "Lock profile" to my other Lock labeled rogatywka, save the label itself. I have long wondered why the label is missing. Perhaps this one was purchased direct from the sub-contractor - ??

Regards,
Tony

[robert odulinski]

Here are some better pictures of my Engineers Rogatywka:-

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[prosty zolnierz]

a little snippet of info. a few years back I contacted Lock's seeking order and supply information regarding a Polish officer's hat. I was informed that although being a ' hatters ' they only retailed head wear during WW2. A search through the company's archive would probably reveal relevant details. It would be a case of making an appointment for a prospective visit. The company's archives were subsequently deposited at the National Archives. Should have gone when I had the opportunity.

[robert odulinski]

That's is very interesting indeed and backs up what Ian at Pateys had said. Maybe there is some info at the ~Sikorski relating to who won the main contracts for the Polish army as it would appear that Locke could have been the preferred supplier outsourcing their hats or Rogatywki once the initial measurements had been made. Alternatively a certain may have been made already to a general design and then just made up.

[robert odulinski]

Here are some pics of my beloved armoured Rog currently under preservation.

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