Question about relic helmets

[davejb]

Unfortunately relic helmets that are too far gone will not survive for a reasonable length of time, especially the wafer thin remnants, Oil will not preserve a helmet nor will it stop the rusting process, it only serves to coat it with a thin film layer and slows the process down, but eventually time will tell on the weakened metal, WD40 removes rust and paint, which is the last thing you want, any oil, because its a lubricant pentrates deep but will not bind metal, you really need to use a rust preventative cure as sold by motor stockists, but be warned it may change the whole colour of the piece, ask about changes before you buy, the whole idea is to change rust back to hard metal and this can only be done chemically

[Glenn66]

I remember reading a National geographic article years ago about the discovery of a Spanish Helmet from the 1600's somewhere in the southern USA, it was nothing more than rust and they got it out of the ground by slowly excavating it out with toothpicks and brushes whilst building support with plaster and cotten (i think). As the metal was completely gone they had to pare the rust down to the firmest remaining rust which was then coated in something called 'lamp black' which bonded, coated and secured the remaining rust. It looked like tar or pitch but at least it held the rust together in it's original form.

I guess for a seriously thin relic lid a similar process could be used, assuming you were that determined to keep the piece.

[davejb]

I wouldnt know Glenn, but your talking a whole different kettle of fish with that type and period of helmet, because of the ancient historical content associated with it , i would imagine that a museum was involved somewhere, they have very special preserving techniques that can takes weeks to secure a helmet or other artifact to warrant display but they would rebuild the item in most cases, their costs involved would far outway the costs that we deal with, they might spend a couple of thousand on preserving or restoration because of the rarity of the item, whereas we just want to display inhouse, if we were to adopt a means of preservation like them , if we could afford it, it far outways the cost of the helmet , you may as well buy a decent looking lid

[TOBRUK]

Glad to view this thread. I have a few ww1 and 2 relic german, australian and japanese helmets. In fact i will not pass on any i find in my travels. There are a lot still in sheds that were once nice vet bring backs, but have been left to Rust In Pieces. Until i read this thread i had not thought of applying anything to them to slow the decaying process. The one in this photo is hanging in the corner of my shed, as it makes a mess whenever touched.

[qotd]

Tobruk, go to mitre 10 and get " rust guard" fish oil.......***** all the remaining moisture out of the steels, dries solid and clear so eon change the appesra mnce of the shell. I have a relic M35, hit it with that, follow the instructions, takes a while to dry properly, and she will be solid as a rock. Alternatively you could sell it to me!!!!!

It doesn't smell at all like fish, no smell at all

[Glenn66]

HAHA! Nice try there qotd!

TOBRUK I reckon that shell of yours would clean up nice with a bath and a srub in Oxalic acid. Dry it off then hit it with the rust guard and she'll be good to bring in the house.

On another note, as a kid I used to visit the Grandparents farm just north of Rockhampton. They had a WW2 US helmet they used to feed the dogs milk in. I always asked for that lid and they wouldn't give it to me. Maybe 8 years ago my Uncle sold the farm and I went to visit but the helmet was nowhere to be found.

[qotd]

How much of that acid do you use??? Is there a water to acid ratio??? I have a rusty, not relic shell with decals, would this work on that

[Glenn66]

yes, about 100g of the acid to 8l of water. Soaking times will depend on the amount and thickness of rust and also if you still have paint on the lid. If its just surface rust you probably wouldn't even want to soak the lid, just scrub it gently with the green side of a kitchen scourer. Leave the decals alone as they get soft with the acid (they dry up nice and hard again afterwards).

I have a thread on the restoration forum about a couple of lids I did. Post your lid there and i'll take a look at it and we'll get some member advice for you.

[TOBRUK]

qotd, i will have to buy a tub of it as i have so many old rusty relics. Thanks for the info. I will start on some of these until i get the hang of it.

[don_kihotis7]

Ohhh I like Glenn, I like.

Out of interest where do you guys pick up or relics from? Any recommendations?

I got my Kurland and Stalingrad relics from ebay.