Yes, I know some rust gives a good impression, but during the war, the German soldier didn't have 64 year old rust on his equipment. That only happened because the stuff we collect was neglected for the last 64 years. If you as a soldier were equiped with new stuff and it received a chip in the paint, there will be no immediate rust on the exposed metal.....TRUST ME, I KNOW.
Pm sent Boss ....
Go to Atinsco International - Power 1 One - Biodegradable fast acting rust stain remover or Power One - Fountain of Youth Restoration and Finishing Products for the BEST rust remover.
By looking at the results I would say it's a product developed for military purposes and sold here as Evaporust. It is quite expensive but non toxic and can be reutilised. I tested it with good results but you must be careful anyway because it will bring back the iron to natural colour, removing any patina. Sometimes this is a bit too much for our relics.
I have not tried it on any of my militaria, yet. I have an SS buckle recoverd from Konigsburg that I am tempted to soak in it. But the buckle is so rusted I'm afraid there may not be anything left!
Evaporust is re-usable and the directions say to keep using it until it stops working. I bought 2 1/2 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket about five years ago and I'm still using it! I think I paid $50 or $60 for it, shipping included (in the U.S.) direct from the manufacturer.
Could you pm me what the stuff is you used?
Rather than START a new thread I thought I would coalesce all the various methods mentioned in various threads into one list - in NO order of preference - so you can choose what best suits you. This is NOT a full blown study, just a guide for you budding chemists to investigate further. As always, treat these stripping agents WITH CARE no matter what they are. PPE ( personal protective equipment ) at all times - So here goes.....
1) OXALIC ACID - white granules that can be dissolved in water and is a tried method for removing light rust and revealing paint. Commercially marketed as a rust stain remover for concrete paths. Works well for most jobs and some great results achieved.
2) ELECTROLYSIS - see this thread. http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/restor...olysis-229245/
3) RUST CONVERTORS - commonly sold as rust removers or 'kill rust', these are usually phosphoric acid that turns the ferrous oxide ( rust ) into ferrous phosphate. The problem with this is that this makes the surface go BLACK!!! .... no good for us collectors!
Then there are convertors with tannic acid in them that put a layer of ferric tannate down ( but again, it is BLACK so no good if you want original finish )
4) BLEACHING AGENTS - shock treatments and chlorine - calcium or sodium chloride that does work but needs to be applied sparingly as it may fade the paint as it flakes off the loose rust. see this thread http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/relic-...ner-is-260167/
5) MOLASSES - a 20:1 solution with the rusted part FULLY immersed will remove all rust over a couple of weeks ( but ALL paint also ) and leave a clean finish. Try it over a day or so and check to see if the paint is not being affected. The benefit is that it it TOTALLY non-toxic ( if you can stand the sickly smell )
6) LEMON JUICE & VINEGAR - citric and acetic acids will also clean and remove light rust and 'pickle' the surface. Start with undiluted product but as always, monitor the process and do it outdoors!!
Can anyone add to the list?
" When you're chewing on life's gristle, don't grumble, give a whistle "
Yep. Not a chemical method but a good one all the same.
Electric drill + wire brush attachment, or a Dremel + wire brush attachment for small items.
Also, let's not forget the Rock Tumbler. Excellent for solid items like cartridges and bullets. Simply place in the rock tumbler with a handful or three of fine sand, turn on and leave for a day. Works a treat.