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Sa dagger grip with scratch

Article about: Hi all..i have this Sa dagger with tiger grip made by E.pack. On the back it has been scratched a code (seems M7667) you think was made by the soldier who took it?? What's your opinion?

  1. #21


    Quote by Larboard View Post
    Does anyone have the list of woods used for early nickel fittings SA daggers? I can't find it right now looking around, but I remember reading it somewhere once. I remember Maple and Pear being on the list, some Suhl daggers obviously used Oak. Anyone know where to find (or have in their archives) a comprehensive list?
    Though not a comprehensive list, this is a snippet from... SA standard

    The curved grip was made from a number of different woods including Oak, Pear, Walnut and Maple, Birch etc.

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  3. #22


    Thx much Dzyner, that is the list I remember reading, thx for the link also ;-) Very good all around info on that page.

  4. #23


    Hi new pics..i hope better than the previous
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture Sa dagger grip with scratch   Sa dagger grip with scratch  

    Sa dagger grip with scratch   Sa dagger grip with scratch  

    Sa dagger grip with scratch   Sa dagger grip with scratch  

  5. #24
    Cor is offline


    Nothing wrong with that grip, I think. Interesting and beautiful piece.

  6. #25


    Looks very nice on this pics.

  7. #26


    Pics have great resolution, bravo!

  8. #27


    She's a real beauty Luca! This is a great example of the power of good photos, thanks for posting them. I see a rather large hairline crack starting just beneath the right leg of the "A" in the SA Roundel. If this were my dagger I would loosed the nut just a tad to allow for humidity expansion so that doesn't end up getting worse. Since the nut is already gnarled it is clear the dagger has been opened before so it will likely loosen fairly easily. If you don't have a tool for removing these nuts, be careful not to add to the damage that is already present.

  9. #28


    Yes, as Dzyner says, don't do anymore damage to the nut. Lakeside Trader sells a very nice wrench for these, a wise investment for anyone dabbling in these daggers.

    There are probably a couple other ways to loosen the nut without doing much if any damage.

    One would be to find the correct spanner, in the form of a wrench made for bicycle wheel bearings, I've never tried it even though I have the wrenches, but I image the thickness of the wrench is very close to the width of the flats.

    The other is to wrap the nut (a little late with this one...) with a fairly stout piece of leather, grip with pliers and turn in the appropriate direction. The leather keeps the jaws of the pliers from biting into the metal, shouldn't leave any traces if done properly. Watch the nuts to see that it is moving, adjust your grip as needed to get the job done.

    But in the long run, buying the correct from Paul is money well spent. Hardly any money, in fact ;-)

    PS Another helpful tip. If you do have the wrench, or a wrench that fits, cut a appropriately sized notch out of a piece of printing paper, and put the paper on the upper crossguard so that the turning of the wrench does not mar the crossguard. I don't know if LT's wrench is plastic coated to prevent this, but "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

  10. #29


    Search Amazon for "dremel tool wrench". As long as the wrench is for "Dremel" branded tools it is the perfect size for SA and SS daggers. You can generally find these for under $5 USD. Larboard is correct though, even if you have the right wrench you have to be very conscious of the surface of the guard beneath the wrench since it too can be easily scratched if you're not careful. Just to clarify, the goal is only to give it half a turn or so to loosen it (slightly). No need to go any further.

  11. #30


    Interesting on the Dremel wrench, didn't know that, good tip.

    I just measured mine; 10mm across the opening, the thickness seems to be just about dead on.

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