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Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

Article about: My first SS Totenkopf hat pin. Has a small RZM marking with 41 under it, its hard to see. Looks like the paint has worn of the front but there is still some on the back. Salty just like you

  1. #1

    Default Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

    My first SS Totenkopf hat pin. Has a small RZM marking with 41 under it, its hard to see.

    Looks like the paint has worn of the front but there is still some on the back. Salty just like you guys like them.

    Any help or info on this pin would be great. Cheers
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  3. #2

    Default re: Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

    This is a post-war copy that first appeared in the 1960s.

    Bob Hritz

  4. #3

    Default re: Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

    That *****

  5. #4

    Default re: Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

    Any tips on what to look for on real one.

  6. #5

    Default re: Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

    Don't feel bad. I still have one I bought, as original, back in the 1960s.

    Use the search function, on the top right of the SS forum and search for SS skull or totenkopf. There are number of great threads on metallic SS skulls that will bring you enlightment.

    Bob Hritz

  7. #6

    Default re: Totenkopf Real? RZM 41 marked

    Quote by Doomula5000 View Post
    Any tips on what to look for on real one.
    There are no short answers to that question. There are a lot of really good fakes (far better than this one), which will fool even experienced collectors. However, just to get you started, here are some very general tips to help you filter out at least the poorer fakes:

    Material: Originals were primarily made of zinc and something called CupAl, which is a layer of aluminum sandwiched between layers of copper (the aluminum layer can often be seen where the edges were shorn off). There were some other rarer original materials, but, if you stick with these, you will stay safe. Originals were finished in either matte silver paint or a silver wash.

    Method: Originals were die-struck (the way coins are minted). The details should be crisp and sharp (unless well worn or damaged). Most fakes are cast or cheaply stamped (like the one above) with poor details.

    Markings: Many fakes use markings which were never used on originals (again like the one above). By learning the original markings, you can at least rule out the completely bogus. Here is a list: http://warrelics.eu/forum/ss-uniform...ion-list-2333/

    To really know what you are doing will take years of study. Like Bob said, start by searching through the old threads on this and other forums.

    Good Luck!
    Brad

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