Panzer wrapper

[Samowen]

Hey all
Hope everyone is enjoying Christmas
Saw this piece with an auctioneer and hoping to get your thoughts

[rbminis]

Just curious, are you doing any studying to learn something for yourself?
Do you have any books on Panzer wrappers?
Ralph.

[Samowen]

I’m taking in the advice from here and I’ve also bought the book attached just waiting for it to arrive
Thanks

[Friedrich-Berthold]

Bravo with the Mollo. He is the foundation of any serious attempt to figure all of this out. Here is what a prototype (item 311) in the clothing works cost in the year 1942. Needless to say, the item you enclose is not of that date.

[Friedrich-Berthold]

There exist highly specialized volumes with detailed colored images of authentic items which the others here will cite for you.
The number of these works grows each year.
The collector collateral damage associated with exactly this kind of item is greater still.
I stick to a specific kind of black jacket of the epoch 1932-194X, which is much more difficult to fake well.
I could suggest certain dealer sites with what I think are authentic examples, but I will let a stronger, more patient
person venture into said no man's land.
My foetid woolens look like this:

[Anderson]

A very good point FB about the quality of tailoring falling away during wartime and so potentially easier to fake a wartime uniform, than a pre war uniform.

[Friedrich-Berthold]

A very good point FB about the quality of tailoring falling away during wartime and so potentially easier to fake a wartime uniform, than a pre war uniform.

Thanks. The black jacket in the quasi SA style or whatever ca. 1932-33 in its nicer variants is a very well made item.
I have never collected the field jackets, other than an army one in the early 1970s which I had briefly,
and it was a simply made garment, with much less formal military tailoring to it. I am sure
there are field jackets of later make that got tailored in high quality, but I have never owned one of them.
We also included all the steps to make a black jacket of the conventional type, schwarzer SS Dienstrock, and it is time consuming
and the well made ones have a lot of hand tailoring in them of a highly refined kind.

[Friedrich-Berthold]

There are very fine picture books on all of these field uniforms in exquisite detail and persons who luxuriate in the details of these mass made items
to the nth degree. I celebrate their sublime knowledge.

[DrCMH]

Thanks. The black jacket in the quasi SA style or whatever ca. 1932-33 in its nicer variants is a very well made item.
I have never collected the field jackets, other than an army one in the early 1970s which I had briefly,
and it was a simply made garment, with much less formal military tailoring to it. I am sure
there are field jackets of later make that got tailored in high quality, but I have never owned one of them.
We also included all the steps to make a black jacket of the conventional type, schwarzer SS Dienstrock, and it is time consuming
and the well made ones have a lot of hand tailoring in them of a highly refined kind.

As FB states, the highly refined details are what supports originality in my assessments of these pieces. I tend to not venture too far from the schwarzer SS Dienstrock myself. I have little confidence in my abilities regarding the field jackets, but, these black jackets have certainly gotten a hold of me. It is very hard to stop collecting with just one!

The well made ones do indeed have quite a bit of hand tailoring that we still observe in bespoke tailored garments. For example, note the pad stitching on the lapel of this SS Stammabteilung Jacket below. All done by hand, and, by very skilled ones, at that.



This work by the tailor imparts the elegance that many observe and others are drawn to with these jackets. The roll line and the hollow of the lapel are both hallmarks of a fine suit.

[DrCMH]

Samowen, you asked in your other thread regarding the Allgemeine uniform what is it, in my opinion, that is no good about the item. The photos weren’t very detailed but, as Arran wrote, the cut and tailoring are inferior to original examples. In the following, after 80 years, the lapels still hold their shape- and this is in a relatively unspectacular Verwaltungsamt issued piece!

Viz:


The textiles are another tell that you would be wise to study and commit to memory if you wish to pursue one of these types of items. FB has put up dozens of photos of tailor sample books from the epoch that contain pristine examples of the materials used in the manufacture of these garments. They range from the exquisite, such as that of the SS Stammabteilung uniform above, to the materials you see below:

Viz:


From FB’s files that he has generously shared with us: