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SD M40 from Kurland

Article about: I got this a while ago and came from Estonia but was found on the Kurland battlefield in Latvia. it still has most of it's original paint although bubbled up a bit and some rust. outer liner

  1. #1
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    Default SD M40 from Kurland

    I got this a while ago and came from Estonia but was found on the Kurland battlefield in Latvia. it still has most of it's original paint although bubbled up a bit and some rust. outer liner band remains. The dent appears to be period as the corrosion is 'pooled' around it. Unfortunately I cant make out any makers marks or size due to the bubbled paint.You can also see the eagle decal and if you look close you can barely make out the swastika. Any comment or info would be loved.
    ~Dean
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  3. #2
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    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Im wondering how this would come up in some oxalic acid Dean, never having used it myself because of the hazards involved, but others swear by it, what are your views on this type of restoring

  4. #3
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    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Well I'm always open minded but w/ this stuff you cant go back. I'll see if anyone has had good results.Thanks Dave.
    ~Dean

  5. #4

    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Quote by davejb View Post
    Im wondering how this would come up in some oxalic acid Dean, never having used it myself because of the hazards involved, but others swear by it, what are your views on this type of restoring
    I soaked a few lids in it and got minimal results. Some do swear by it, but- I've seen great after pics on here. I think it depends on the helmet, and getting the formula right. I believe in leaving as is. All though-Sometimes, it is fun to mess around.

  6. #5
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    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    yeah, I know what you mean. That's why I think I'm leaving this be. for now.Thanks.
    ~Dean

  7. #6
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    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Theres loads of details and results in the restoration section, and the correct way of using it, to my way of thinking its a leap of faith but if youve got it right there haver been some very good results

  8. #7

    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Personally i'd recommend against using oxalic on this lid, the acid tends to bleach the paint and this lid looks quite light colored already.

  9. #8
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    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    yeah,Glenn, the paint is a light black or grey/charcoal.I dont want to screw it up but I do want to halt the rusting.Possibly a sealant ? Clear-coat /dull.
    ~Dean

  10. #9

    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Hi Dean,
    Really nice helmet i collect battlefield helmets to, and mostly just clean off the crap, and leave as is,
    your,s looks very solid i like it. iv not used the acid method so cant comment on it, well done.
    dave.

  11. #10

    Default Re: SD M40 from Kurland

    Hi Dean,
    I think you'd be unhappy with the results of any clear coat or sealant. I've had a closeup look at your photos and what rust there is doesn't look to be active. If you went down the oxalic acid path, the lid would need a good long soak to (maybe) shift some of the heavier rust and as I've said you'd definately be bleaching the paint in that case. Light, surface rust will certainly be removed by the oxalic but I can't see you have any of that type of rust so really I'd be just giving it a wipe over with a wet rag, a good dry then maybe try some renaissance wax. The only trouble with the wax on pitted surfaces is that it can build in the hollows and look white (as wax does), so apply carefully out of sight first and if you're not happy just stop.

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