Searching for anything relating to, Anton Boos, 934 Stamm. Kp. Pz. Erz. Abt. 7, 3 Kompanie, Panzer-Regiment 2, 16th Panzer-Division (My father)
Wow Ralph Very nice and thankyou for the step by step photos,,this is exactly what Im looking for for this thread. I would of never thought about the red and green felt idea,,makes sense!! As I said in my quote I dont mind the use of Axis examples,,if it shows the process of mounting etc.....Butterflys are ok too,,which shows the tie back method on the back of the board. Very Nice Eric
I have included a photo from the 2011 Max Show of Collector "Skipper Greenwade" as he creates displays,,made to order. I particularly liked this one which shows a 1st model Luft. The same display also be used for Heer, Kriegsmarine, Luftwaffe, SA/SS Teno etc. I am sorry I dont have step by step photo of this but I thought this was cool looking.
I would like to pin this thread if we can get more information and "How to". Everything posted so far has been great. Regards Larry
It is not the size of a Collection in History that matters......Its the size of your Passion for it!! - Larry C
One never knows what tree roots push to the surface of what laid buried before the tree was planted - Larry C
“The farther back you can look, the farther forward you are likely to see.” - Winston Churchill
I visit the Klingenmuseum in Solingen for several days each year. I very much like the method they use to display their edged weapons. It sets the piece out from the background and minimizes contact points.
I have experimented with this method, and will use it to mount my daggers, hopefully soon. The wire can be covered in small shrink tubing, to avoid metal to metal contact. I have made a stand, using a wooden base, 3/16" brass rod, and a thin wire at the top bent into hooks. The guard can then be set onto the hooks, it makes the dagger appear to float in mid air, but is very stable. The hook shape will also work on backing mounted wires. It makes the dagger very easy to remove. Unfortunately I can not find the experimental stand, if I do, I will post it.
Here some photos from the Klingenmuseum.
Searching for anything relating to, Anton Boos, 934 Stamm. Kp. Pz. Erz. Abt. 7, 3 Kompanie, Panzer-Regiment 2, 16th Panzer-Division (My father)
Searching for anything relating to, Anton Boos, 934 Stamm. Kp. Pz. Erz. Abt. 7, 3 Kompanie, Panzer-Regiment 2, 16th Panzer-Division (My father)
I found the experimental stand.....in the scrap bin of course.
This thing is rough, I simply wanted to see how it worked. I would make the hooks longer to get the dagger away from the stand a little more. And of course use better craftsmanship. Ralph is right, silver solder is best. These stands would work well in display cabinets or under glass domes etc.
Wolfgang this too is a great idea as it would be a "space saver" on a shelf or in a cabinet. A common plexi-glass type box would be a great case. This looks relatively inexpensive,, but would dress up well looking like alot more. Nice idea! Regards Larry
It is not the size of a Collection in History that matters......Its the size of your Passion for it!! - Larry C
One never knows what tree roots push to the surface of what laid buried before the tree was planted - Larry C
“The farther back you can look, the farther forward you are likely to see.” - Winston Churchill
I am doing something similar to what they use in Solingen museum.
It's a bit more complicated as it includes work on a lathe, but the result is much better.
First a machined piece is hammered into a hole inside the back board (it's 18mm wood particle board),
than a dagger hanger is screwed in it. With this I can change the distance from the back wall, and can even bring dagger in front in between two mannequins, if wanted.
Also, if you unscrew it and do not use that spot any more, it does not look ugly.
For me it's rather cheap solution as the entire work + material cost me some 5 euro per set.
It's made of stainless steel.
I have a few hints.
1. make the hole in the back wall 8mm, 15mm deep.
2. make the metal insert at least 8,5mm, better 9mm so that you have to hammer it inside.
if you do not do that', because of the dagger weight it will slightly lean downwards (been there).
3. make 5mm shaft, so that you have anough "meat" in the sides of the insert
4. make 2mm wire piece that holds the dagger, and you can also use shrinking tube to protect dagger from scrtaches.
Hope this helps.
Hi Larry, Excellent idea and I note that you have already had 7 thousand plus hits on this thread so it is obviously popular. There are some ingenious display methods shown in the thread and a lot more to come I hope. When I eventually get the opportunity to set up a display for my blades, I will certainly be trying some of the tips from your thread. I would like to take this opportunity to complement and congratulate you on the thread and all of the Forum members who have contributed to it. One last thing, I would strongly recommend that this thread should be considered as a "Reference" and be pinned!!
With thank, regards and best wishes Michael R
Similar Threads
Bookmarks