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M1 front seam soldered captain bars

Article about: Hello everyone. Took the advice and ordered two books, waiting for them to arrive. Been reading the top two pinned threads on the forum trying to familiarize myself with M1 attributes. Came

  1. #1

    Default M1 front seam soldered captain bars

    Hello everyone. Took the advice and ordered two books, waiting for them to arrive. Been reading the top two pinned threads on the forum trying to familiarize myself with M1 attributes.

    Came across this interesting one. A soldered captains insignia shell, swivel bails, no liner straps, liner is Firestone maker marked, partially exposed maker stamp.

    I'm not sure the shell straps are period correct.

    Thanks for all your thoughts.

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  2. #2

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    If I'm not mistaken, and both pieces are original to each other, the liner should have the bars painted on as well.
    Ralph.
    Searching for anything relating to, Anton Boos, 934 Stamm. Kp. Pz. Erz. Abt. 7, 3 Kompanie, Panzer-Regiment 2, 16th Panzer-Division (My father)

  3. #3

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    I don't believe the liner has bars nor were they painted over. Seller has it priced at $250, but they are open to offers. Not sure if the liner/shell mismatch and the interior quality of the shell would be a deal breaker.

  4. #4

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    Upon closer inspection the shell straps may be post war modifications as per WWII-Era M1 Helmets: A Beginner's Guide - Military Trader/Vehicles

  5. #5

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    The helmet is a ww2 US helmet and so is the liner but from the pictures it’s hard to tell much about the straps, texture of the helmet and the Captain bars. For me I would like to see better close up pictures.

    Marty
    Fortune favors the brave 644th td

  6. #6

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    Has nobody noticed the front three rivets retaining the hbt webbing are NOT factory fitted?could be period or maybe someone has repaired the liner more recently?and if the latter is true then quite possibly the chinstraps were added around the same time?too many questiion marks for me plus its come in at way below a true ww2 captain's set would fetch.better off to pass on this one>

  7. #7

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    The chinstraps have been given me a odd feeling, the j hook over all looks right but the catch on the inside of the hook looks off almost like a European made hook. A lot of Hmm moments.

    Marty
    Fortune favors the brave 644th td

  8. #8

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    Hmm always wondered how to soldered on a steel shell? You cant is the easy answer! Tin/lead and steel does not bind!
    If you soldered it does not bind, and if you weld the brass/cooper melts long before it binds. You must glue or drill is my take!

  9. #9

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    Quote by Twthmoses View Post
    Hmm always wondered how to soldered on a steel shell? You cant is the easy answer! Tin/lead and steel does not bind!
    If you soldered it does not bind, and if you weld the brass/cooper melts long before it binds. You must glue or drill is my take!
    Sorry but I have to disagree.
    Tin/lead has been used in the manufacture of automobile bodies for many years, and yes, it does bond with the correct temperatures.
    Ralph.
    Searching for anything relating to, Anton Boos, 934 Stamm. Kp. Pz. Erz. Abt. 7, 3 Kompanie, Panzer-Regiment 2, 16th Panzer-Division (My father)

  10. #10

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    Quote by rbminis View Post
    Sorry but I have to disagree.
    Tin/lead has been used in the manufacture of automobile bodies for many years, and yes, it does bond with the correct temperatures.
    Ralph.
    I’m sure you are correct, just always wondered how to make such a small piece of copper/brass stick to a much larger steel surface using soldering, without destroying it before it actually bonds. Temperature control and experience is the key I guess.

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