1826 B Evans "Valley Forge" musket

[jamped55]

Hello, I am looking at buying this musket however the metal has been gone over with steel wool. This has started to rust up anew. This has also been converted from flintlock to percussion back in the day. So, how does removing the finish affect values? Thanks Jim

[lithgow]

Pictures?

[jamped55]

here are a few pics.

[USNV5]

According to the pictures it does not look too bad. Any "finish" removed was patination, not original arsenal done finish, the muskets were burnished and issued bright - with no finish at all. Part of a 19th Century soldier's discipline was keeping the arm clean, even on campaign.

Personally I would prefer to see a patinated musket rather than one that has had the old, slow rust brown that has developed over the many years since last issued to a soldier removed, it speaks rather well of an old gun's age and does not hurt it's value.

[crites1234]

Is it fireable?

[ww2relichunter]

Is it fireable?

it could be but i prefer not to fire old guns when i get them the last thing you would want to do is hurt the gun or yourself just to take a shot and if you really wanted to i would say take it to a gun professional and he will let you know if it is possible to do so !!!

[Major Tom]

Very nice piece, original condition is always more collectible in the realm that it speaks with a story however it looks as if it was done correctly probably with 600 steal wool or scotch brite pad. As USVN5 said before about barrels in the bright, The reason troops during the campaigns of the rev-war and the time of Neopolian tactical basics of the time was when keeping at left shoulder arms with locks exposed outwards during march in file or in ranks to a battle-site was to intimidate the opposing side with those big bright shiny barrels. Again very nice firearm, have it re-proofed (if possible) and looked at professionally before using.

Regards
Tom

inspect the breech and rear barrel area for swelling and pitting!!!!

[jamped55]

Thanks for all your opinions. My thought was that it would be worth more left untouched. I'm still mulling over buying this and want to get my information correct before making a offer. However it's my brother-in-law's and he's several states away, so I think the possession rule applies! I don't plan on firing this musket. Since the finish is removed what do I need to do to preserve the medal.
Thanks
Jim

[Major Tom]

You want to use a acid-free mineral oil on older firearms because these firearms where built with a very high carbon content low Magnesium composition so using a regular oil might damage a barrel that already has pitting, what I have done in the past is pulled the barrel off, clean the inside barrel with warm soapy water then follow that with (believe it or not ) Windex window cleaner to clean any corrosive material out that might still be active and dry it thoroughly, heat the barrel up then applied a mineral/koji oil on it (same used for Japanese swords) thoroughly wipe excess off leaving a thin film inside and out, do this to anything steel on the weapon, keep in a dry warm area of your home (not the basement) and if you live in area like me next to salt water you'll have to oil anything steel monthly depending where its stored. Hope this helps.

Regards
Tom

Use extra soft steel wool to rub off any red-rusted areas may be using 500 grit sandpaper using a side to side motion (like shining shoes) not up and down the barrel motion.

[USNV5]

Not to disagree with Major Tom but the metal used to manufacture arms before modern times was iron, not steel. The only steel parts were the moving parts of the lock - the tumbler, sear, the various springs, etc. The barrel and furniture were what today is considered to be soft iron with relatively little carbon. As such, Major Tom's advice is good. Clean it well (avoid any further use of steel wool) and use oil as the preservative, not enough to run off easily, a light coat of good oil applied occasionally will be sufficient. I personally have done this for 50 years on all metal parts and have had no tendency to develop rust on anything. BUT... do avoid getting petroleum oil on the wood. For that you may use linseed oil if you feel it is dry but your stock does not appear to be. A simple coat of a good wax will preserve the wood quite nicely and can be applied to the iron and brass parts as well as long as oil is completely removed.