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German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

Article about: After removal of rust to metal parts I would use a simple silicone cloth sold in any gun or hardware store to prevent future rust. Have used one for years on my guns and have been very satis

  1. #31

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    After removal of rust to metal parts I would use a simple silicone cloth sold in any gun or hardware store to prevent future rust. Have used one for years on my guns and have been very satisfied. Leaves a shiny and protective finish that will prevent rust. I don't think guy you bought it from knows value of these guns. Many were ruined years back for being made into sporters for hunting purposes.

  2. #32

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    After rust removed and you are finished and satisfied with the job done then spray thoroughly with C96, it wont harm the wood. Let it soak for about 30 minutes and wipe down with a cloth and your rifle will be well preserved.

  3. #33

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    I'd recommend using a Hoppes 9 cloth that is specially impregnated with silicone to keep rust off the metal. In fact, I'd bet that the metal pieces covered by the wood stock are in much better condition, if rusted at all!

    Nick, if you are uncertain about any of this, I would highly recommend going to your local gun store and asking for their advice. Don't be afraid to ask them a million questions, even if you think the questions are silly. For example, I had my gunsmith take his finger and apply pressure on the palm of my hand to show me how much pressure I should put onto the 0000 steel wool I used while gently scrubbing the rust off.

    I REALLY think you should try to restore this rifle on your own, but there is no harm in going to a gunsmith and asking him for pointers. It's going to go a lot easier than you think... trust me, I experienced the same with my Japanese T38 rifle.

    If you can, make a thread about your restoration process... we would all love to see pictures of how it goes step by step!!

    I failed to mention this earlier... your rifle is mising it's sight hood AND cleaning rod. Both are pretty easy to find as repros, but I think you should consider searching for originals that compliment the patina on your rifle... plus, your rifle is otherwise all- matching and untouched... putting on repro parts would be a sin!

  4. #34

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    Quote by nkumburis View Post
    Ok so here is my gameplan, Im going to take birchwood casey gun scrubber and put it on a piece of cloth and lightly scrub all metal parts, for tight corners I will use either a toothbrush or Q tip. If that doesnt work then Ill use a brillo pad and try to clean it gently. Then my father will clean the barrel for me. After that I will take warm water and another piece of cloth and clean the stock. Also should I put on rust preventive? Also any other tips? - Nick K
    Birchwood Casey gun scrubber is not what you want to use That is the same as brake cleaner, it will not give you any lubrication while you are trying to remove the rust just like sandpaper. I use that very sparingly and only for cleaning the residue from my bore after using my bore brush or hard to reach places. It can also damage your stock by discoloration and drying it out. Please use GUN OIL, LOT's of GUN OIL. [B][B]Nothing else but GUN OIL, HOPPES#9 CLEANER/DEGREASER or CLP ( Clean Lubricate Protect ) should be attempted!!! Using the Birchwwod alone will scratch the hell out of your gun. I'd hate to see you screw this up.

    Happiness is a belt fed weapon

  5. #35

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    Thanks for the tip! I went to the store and bought Hoppes 9 Silicone cloth and Hoppes 9 quick clean cloth. - Nick K

  6. #36

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    Quote by milmuseum View Post
    WD40 NO!! Use Hoppes #9 or CLP and don't go cheap on the oil when you're using it. Oil's cheap, guns are not. WD40 is good for a lot of things but not for guns. Please post a few pictures when you're done.

    Hello Burt,
    Just one example of WD 40 actally being useful on a gun. Some time ago I was given a Queen Anne cannon barrel turn off pistol, or I should say the remains of one. Most of the woodwork had gone although the silver butt plate was still intact, however there was no way of unscrewing the barrel without causing damage. I had tried just about everything, heat and cold, deep freezing followed by hot water, and just about every proprietry releasing oil. I mentioned this to an elderly collector and to my astonishment he simply immersed the entire action in a container of WD 40 and told me to come back in a fortnight. After 14 days I returned and he put the action into a wood vice and after wrapping the barrel with a piece of leather, handed me a pair of gas pliers and invited me to apply a gentle pressure. With hardly any force at all the barrel turned off perfectly and after the first turn it could be removed by hand! As a bonus, all the solidly rusted components were also freed. Now I wouldn't recommend this method on a weapon in any sort of reasonable condition, but in this case where the only other option was to keep it as a solid relic I was able to make a walnut grip, replacing the silver butt plate, and with a carefull cold blue, I had a half decent looking pistol for virtually nothing.
    Just thought I'd mention this as I really didn't think the method would do anything, wrong again !
    Kind regards,

  7. #37

    Default Re: German ww2 k98 mauser!!!!!!

    I like it, even though it has some nice patina to it, crate some character!
    Nice find my friend!

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