I spent an hour and a half or so cleaning up my rifle (I'm sure I could spent another hour picking out cosmoline from the unseen little nooks and crannies) and here are better pictures as promised! As I assumed, the barrel cleaned up GREAT! Very strong rifling!
I am very happy with this rifle and I would appreciate any and all help deciphering the dozens of stock and receiver markings on my new baby!
I also found what I think is a name etched on the oil/ solvent bottle. Help translating that would be cool!
If anyone wants any additional pictures, please do not hesitate to let me know and I'll do my best to accommodate!!
Looks like a great rifle, Joe. Please post pics or a link if and when you take her
out for a test shoot. I'm wondering how you'd feel about rubbing a product
called 'Scratch-hider' onto the stock. This will 'tone down' the surface
scratches on it, especially near the receiver and butt. Linseed oil
may not darken it enough.........
I've already got one canvas cover so if I can find one, you have first dibs. If I can find more than one then I MIGHT buy another. I really only use it when I transport one of my snipers.
Great pictures. The markings are typical refurb marks - similar to those you see on an M1 carbine - and were applied at various stations in the factory as it moved through the refurb process. The larger laser etched markings were applied to permit the rifles to pass through EU customs. Because of EU import restrictions against military weapons transfers, the rifles were classified as hunting rifles - the KO designation. Did you get an instruction manual in the box? There were so many marks used - and no recods have come out of Russia confirming the significance of them all. One good place to look for info on the markings is here - Soviet M91/30
The stocks were coated with a reddish shellac during refurb. you can, if you want, smooth out the scratches by lightly rubbing a cloth with rubbing alcohol on it from one side across the scratch. That will blend the shellac over the scratch. Don't rub too hard or too much - a little goes a long way here. Personally, I prefer to leave the scratches as they are - but others prefer to repair them.
In any case, you got a winner!! Can't wait to hear the range report.
Don't forget to clean it properly if you're shooting MILSURP corossive ammo!
I figured as much about most of the markings... Still, it couldn't hurt to hope that some of the markings were rare or unusual! I'm hearing back that the etching on the oil bottle is uncommon... so that's cool at least! Do any of the markings on the barrel shank/ receiver set this rifle apart from a regular Mosin? For example, a mark that means it's more accurate and fit for sniper duty?
I think I will keep the scratches and uneven coat of shellac w/ visable brush strokes... I like them and I think it adds character and really exemplifies what this rifle is... a battle tested M91/30 PU sniper that was refurbed by the factory to make it fit for military service... NOT to make it look pretty.
I hope to bring her to the range soon... unfortunately not today or later this week because of the current monsoon weather we're having here in NY. Don't worry, I have lots of windex, warm soapy water and bore blaster to clean her up afterwards! I would like to get a crate of 7.62x54r. I think opening those cans with that lever action can opener thing is kinda cool!
I've seen 7.62x54r laser bore sighters online... Is there any benefit to using one of these in my PU to dial in the scope... or are they a waste of $15?
I didn't see any markings that jumped out at me as really unusual - although there are some that fall into the unknown category. Izhevsk snipers were not specifically marked - Tula snipers carry a CN or HN marking on the top of the barrel abouve the factory mark - other than having the scope seriel number stamped on the left side of the barrel. There's some debate about the oval marking next to the original Izhevsk factory mark on your rifle - some people claim it designates a sniper, but there is nothing definitive recorded and other Izhevsk snipers exist without the mark. Unfortunately, there is no real one manual available to document the marks. So, there are lots of ideas and much conjecture.
I will ask some of my friends to look at your pics and see if anything jumps out at them.
The covers will probably run in the $50 to $75 range for a good original - maybe a little less. I haven't seen one in a few months but you never know when one will pop up.
It's raining here, too. No shooting for my until Sunday, at least.
Do you have any advice on laser bore sighters for setting up my scope? I see them all over ebay... I'm talking about the ones that are actually shaped like a rnd of 7.62x54r and are chambered in the rifle.
I just noticed that my two Mosins have different types of holes in their stocks for mounting slings (excuse my lack of knowledge on the technical term...) Does anyone know if these two types of sling attachment holes mean anything? Different factory for stock production... different time period for stock production... mid to late war or pre/ post war?
Sorry. I forgot to mention ther laser bore sighters. I bought one to try it out - don't think they are worth the investment personally. Your scope should be generally sighted for the rifle. I would put the scope into the rail and tighten the top adjustment screw until tight, then tighten the large thumb screw. Zero your windage/elevation knobs. Then fire 5 shots at a 50 yard target - preferably from a sled or at least with a sandbag. If the target hits are significantly high or low, you can adjust the two vertical mounting screws to chang the strike of the bullet. Left/right large corrections were made through grinding the pads inside the sight base. From your picture, it's obvious this was done - which tells me your rifle was sighted before storage. The goal is to get your scope crosshairs as close to center as possible before you start firing rounds to zero the rifle. That will give you maximum ability to adjust at extended range and to account for winds.
After you make the gross adjustment - or is the rifle is close to start after your first 5, compute a median aim point of the 5 round group. With the rifle aimed at the original point of aim, adjust your scope knobs to align the crosshairs over the median strike point. Refire and refine - I normally fire 5 round strings when I'm doing this. Once you have your zero you can move out to 100 yards and validate, if you want. I found that on my current match rifle, I was able to zero the knobs at 50 yards (loosen the two screws on the turrets slightly - DO NOT REMOVE THEM - and you can move the dials to zero; then retighten the screws. When I moved to 100 yards in competition, I found that I was only moving to 100 on the knob for the 300 yard targets and just under 400 for the 600 yard target - the actualt strike in elevation is greatly affected by the weight of the bullet and the powder charge.
I'd be glad to talk you through this. Drop me a PM if you want and I'll send you my phone number.
The stocks do have variations in the sling holes based on when they were manufactured. I don't have my reference with me but will be heading home soon and will try to provide some info - perhas someone else will chime in before then.