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Russian Maxim M1910

Article about: I am putting the finishing touches to this package. The belt loader and armor plate (IMA repro, sorry) are inbound. I decided it was time to buy one, looking at the prices and the way they'v

  1. #21


    Very nice Maxim you've got there! Nice to see one in good working condition.

  2. #22


    So that wonderful ammo I posted pics of myself loading was metallic core - it was windy and a high fire advisory at the range so - no go - I did do a comparison video between the G33 and the K98 though, lol.

    We drove to a second range that was also NG - then found a friend in the wilds who let us set up the Maxim in his garden!!! - we fired and had a split case - then another - by the time we had cleared the second, with the very efficient split case tool provided in the tool kit, it was getting dark - to be continued.

    *I know you wanted to see the Maxim shoot, and believe me I did too - but we'll get it running and make a nice video - here is me eating my words about the G33 and the K98, BTW the video makes the muzzle flash look bigger
    Laugh at me as I am forced to admit the G33 kicks harder, is louder and makes a bigger flash - BTW I shot this four times to try to get a better result, by this pass, everyone was starting to giggle and make fun of me pretty badly.

  3. #23


    Pit here's a picture of my buddy shooting my C&R original snow cap 1910. Next to him is my RP 46. The 1910 is my favorite water cooled MG and the Rp 46 my favorite LMG. I have a DP 28 barrel in at in this photo as I have only one of the heavier RP 46 barrels. It also has the belt loading device tha allows the use of the metallic PKM belts. When I first got my 1910 it was also having case separations like your has. The original owner told me he had the problem. Mine was doing that because the original owner had not adjusted the head space. Just behind were the lock is the arm that the lock attaches to. It a 2 piece arm I just loosen it and I put in shims that that I use to adjust my Vickers head space. Problem fixed. It has never had a case separation since then with over 5K rounds thru it. One more thing. I started out using the Fin belt loader but eventually bought a PKM belt loader which made the belt loading a lot easier. As stated the 1910 is super accurate. We shoot at 500 yards and all you see is a very small dust cloud impact. Just dig in the spikes on the Sokolov mount. THere is one down side to the 1910. When ever I bring it out everyone wants to shoot it. So I had to take apart one belt and make 50 round segments for those wanting to shoot it. Before that it was very common for some one to dump a whole belt.

  4. #24



    That is great advice, I have been pouring through the books I have, and several technical websites, I figured it might be a head space issue of some type.
    It was quite a frustrating day, but, after it was all said and done, I think I actually enjoyed it - you shoot old guns you sort of have to enjoy stripping them down, tweaking and adjusting.
    If we wanted to just plug and play we'd have black rifles, they're a lot less maintenance, and certainly less bloody knuckles.

    Thank you - great pic of your firearms, nice.
    (is that your Lewis in the bottom right of the pic?)

  5. #25


    Iam willing to bet all you need is to shim the 1910 and you will no longer have a problem. if you put to many shims in the lock will feel hard to close If that's the case just take a few shims out until it feel just tight enough to close. In any case that is how I head spaced my Vickers and 1910. I hope you have plenty of 7.62X54R ammo. The 1910 is such a fun gun I always shoot a full case every time I take it out and that is limiting myself. When I first got it I ran thru 3 cases the first time out.
    I found Czech silver tip or East German the best fodder for my 1910. Good luck getting your 1910 running trouble free. i love all the accouterments you have for your 1910.

  6. #26


    Wonderful weapon I love the accessories thank you for showing.


  7. #27


    Samnev - do you have a picture of the shims you used, in the lock - it would be really helpful to see those.
    When the opportunity presents itself - I think it would be an interesting addition to this thread.
    It would be very helpful to me, too.

    Happy New Year, guys!

  8. #28


    US forum members -
    I contacted Dennis at Mid-West Metals and without questioning my email or any hesitation he sent me, at his expense an envelope of different sized shims to headspace the Maxim.
    I do own a MWM's Maxim, but I did not buy it from Dennis, but from one of his customers, so I was certainly not in his database.
    Just thought I would put that out there - great customer relations and integrity.

    Thanks for the headsup Samnev, I would not have known where to start with headspacing the M1910, there is nothing about it in the Collector Grade book - that is why these boards are good.

    BTW - silver tip attracts a magnet so NG in CA - fire hazard I guess.

    Now to get to the range again, lol!

    Me with a PKM in Jan - that is Catalina Island in the BG.

  9. #29


    Oops -

  10. #30


    Somehow I missed this post. Sorry, but I only have the shims that are in the Maxim. They were the last ones I had. They came from thee Vickers accessory box the Brits issued with the Vickers. Glad you got the Maxim head spaced. The one problem with them is they never stop running and everyone wants to shoot them. So stack up on ammo.

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