British SMLE 1907 Pattern Sanderson Bayonet Dated May 1918

[Correus]

Hello Everyone!

I've just acquired a British SMLE 1907 Pattern Sanderson bayonet dated May 1918. I know what some of the marks mean, but not all of them. Could any of you help with identifying the rest?

I know what the symbols in the left picture mean, the right one, however, I'm not too sure about. The "X" I know is the 'Bend Mark', the "Broad Arrow" is the 'Government acceptance mark'. The others I'm not sure about. The markings on either side of the "X", and above it, are inspection stamps, or "View Marks" (I think), but what do the numbers on these marks stand for? Was does the "E" stand for - 'Enfield'?



Thanks!

[Battery Command Post]

Yes, you are right. The stamps are indeed inspection marks consisting of a crown, a letter indicating the place of inspection (in this case, as you say, E for Enfield) and the personal identification code for the inspector himself (possibly herself?).

The fact that there are three marks indicates the bayonet has been inspected three times, twice after it's initial inspection. Sometimes there are also additional dates stamped into the weapon to indicate when the inspections took place, often just the year e.g. '10 for 1910. Some 1888 Pattern Bayonets are absolutely plastered in inspection marks and dates

Looks like a nice example, with it's original finish. Can we see pictures of the whole bayonet? I like 1907s, not usually rare, although there are some very rare examples, but beautiful looking weapons in any case

Rob

PS I think it's actually dated March 1918

[Correus]

Thanks Rob! Meant March but wrote May - D'oh!!!

I've had a 1917 dated SMLE Mk III* for a few years now and finally found a bayonet for it that I liked.

Here are some additional pics.

[Battery Command Post]

The bayonet is a very nice example, but the sheath looks nice too. Is it actually a brown leather example?

Original WW1 sheaths were made in brown leather, and most were dyed black in the 1920s. They are very hard to find in their original brown.

What markings are on it?

Rob

[Correus]

Heya Rob -

It's reddish; doesn't appear to have been blackened at all. As for markings, there is a very very faint marking (see 2nd pic) and it looks like a crown and 12. Does that sound about right for the markings? I have no clue.

[Battery Command Post]

Heya Rob -

It's reddish; doesn't appear to have been blackened at all. As for markings, there is a very very faint marking (see 2nd pic) and it looks like a crown and 12. Does that sound about right for the markings? I have no clue.

It sounds like another inspection mark actually, which is good. The style of the sheath is also correct for a genuine British WW1 brown version. These were also made in the USA for the British Army too. I don't want to make a definite call on it without a closer look, but it looks good.

Rob

[Bruno]

Here is my US-made Remington... it has very brown leather

[Correus]

Hello Everyone!

The bayonet finally arrived and I got some additional pictures.

I tried to get a picture of the maker's marks on the leather part of the scabbard but didn't have any luck. It does have what looks like a crown/inspection stamp, under that a "12" and under this the "broad arrow". The metal parts of the scabbard have "RE" stamped on them. Also, the frog stud is a teardrop shape, not round.

The leather is an extremely rich reddish brown and feels silky.

The blade is EXTREMELY tight coming out of and going into the scabbard - is this normal? Also, should I treat the blade with something like gun oil?

One last question, and this is an odd one....

When looking at the bayonet, in the scabbard, should the rifle whole on the guard be to the left or right oh the frog stud? I did Google this but found them facing both ways. seeings how the military likes to micro manage every aspect of life and kit I figured there was a 'correct' way it should be in the scabbard.

Now for the other pics.







P8080203.jpg

[ph3s]

Nice blade, taking care of it is always good. There is no right way to put the blade into scabbard, whatever is convenient is the right way. I have one of his bros from 1917 right next to me If you have desided to clean it with oil, wipe it good after the procedure, so oil will no go into the scabbard. It's bad for leather

[Correus]

Thanks! Were these things meant to be this tight?