Refurbished SMLE Mk III Bayonet Stampings (Australia)

[christek]

Greetings all,

I believe these are examples of refurbished Short Magazine Lee Enfield No 1 Mk III bayonets. One in particular showing the long life these bayonets had in them. One had been refurbished in 1936, the other in 1956. Note the difference in finish to the steel blades.

The bayonet shown on this post was manufactured in 1918 at Sanderson England. It has a plethora of armoury stamping, and others the meaning of still elude me. I generally base my refurb opinion here on the '36 stamped over the '18, the Orange Arsenal sheath and great condition of the finished steel. Curiously, the timber grip appears to have an age patina, which would appear slightly in contrast to the steel finish. The 'H' mark on the grip retaining hilt is a mystery to me.

[christek]

The second example manufactured at Orange Arsenal in 194?, had been refurbished in 1956. This date surprised me a little initially. 1956 must have been really toward to end of the SMLE Mk III era in Australia. Although it has been sharpened I picked it up as I had never seen such a modern date or one with a blued finish. The bayonet has several stampings on the grip hilt, including 'R', broad arrow and '56. I believe the R stands for refurbished, but as always I'm happy to be corrected. Grips from Slazenger dated '56 one side and '55 on the other! The sheath has an Orange Arsenal locket, with the 'R' stamped again on the mouthpiece. The chape has a Lithgow proof mark. I am not 100% on the 'R' stampings, I thought initially Reserve but I have not heard of this on Australian bayonets, only British examples.

[The fish]

Hi could any one help with markings on bayonet and best way to keep it rust free plus how to look after scabaud thanks

[AZPhil]

Nice assortment of Auzzie P 07's.
I also have one that is in great condition with the SLAZ 44 stamped on the grips.

Semper Fi
Phil

[christek]

Hi could any one help with markings on bayonet and best way to keep it rust free plus how to look after scabaud thanks

G'day mate and welcome to the forum!

In the future you will probably get a better response if you start your own thread.

You have a nice WWI British made 1907 Pattern Bayonet by Sanderson dated 1917. A nicely marked scabbard!

Store the bayonet separate from the leather scabbard (not inside it). A nice thin coat of quality oil such a gun oil is all the blade should need to keep it from rusting.

Never touch a blade with your fingers.

[Alex W]

christek,

You're right with the Sanderson with it being reinspected in 1936. The grips have been painted at some stage. I can't help with the H marking.

As for the Orange, I've always known the R to be refurbished. Its interesting to see the Lithgow chape. Its hard to tell from your photos but the blades were re sharpened quite roughly at the end of the refurbishment.

The fish,

This website should help Markings on British and Commonwealth Bayonets

Everyone has a different opinion when it comes to preservation but I use Renaissance Wax. A search on this forum should give you plenty of info.

Alex

[lithgow]

Vaseline on the blade-doesn't evaporate-the No. 1 Mk III* rifle remained in Australian use well into the 1960s with the CMF/Reserve, especially country based units and with school based Cadet Corps units until the mid 1970s-the war stocks of the rifles weren't sold off until the early 1980s so even bayos refurbed in 1956 still had plenty of potential use/storage ahead of them.

[christek]

christek,

You're right with the Sanderson with it being reinspected in 1936. The grips have been painted at some stage. I can't help with the H marking.

As for the Orange, I've always known the R to be refurbished. Its interesting to see the Lithgow chape. Its hard to tell from your photos but the blades were re sharpened quite roughly at the end of the refurbishment.

The fish,

This website should help Markings on British and Commonwealth Bayonets

Everyone has a different opinion when it comes to preservation but I use Renaissance Wax. A search on this forum should give you plenty of info.

Alex

G'day mate - Yes it was sharpened and I was not a big fan. Let that one go for very little money a while back. Cheers

[Larry C]

Vaseline on the blade-doesn't evaporate

I can agree on the composition of Vaseline that it would take a few decades but eventually will dry if left unattended.

The bayo blade differs in aestetics compared to highly polished blades where the gunk that dries will create runner marks.

I would say that it would be less noticed on a bayo blade because of the finish......but everything dries over some period of time.

Best application IMO ..is to periodically check and wipe the blade down with a dry cloth. If anything should be applied it should be RenWax...... An acrylic sealer.

Regards Larry

[The fish]

Hi thanks for taking the time to reply much appicated ,how would you look after the scabbard as well ,I am a bit new to this regards john