SA / SS Runners preservation

[Rich Moran]

Larry, I just used 1500 then 3000 and finally 5000 grit diamond compound on a post war GI souvenir HJ knife. Not only did the runner marks get removed but most of the sanding & stone sharpening marks from a previous owner were removed.

I did not spend much time on doing this but what I see is the typical cross graining became more visible.

I think if I continue with the 3000 grit more sanding & stone marks could be removed further exposing the original cross grain marks from factory finish. Thanks for the tips on all of this!

Also a tidbit I found online is that leather polishing wheels are used to gain cross grain.

Wondering if a Solingen blade producer were contacted if they would advise what leather wheel as well as what compound grit should used to aid in preservation as well as pulling out more original cross grain marks.

[Larry C]

Hi Rich..be careful with that 3000 grit on Third Reich Blades...and I advise not to use it on them. IT WILL leave abrasions behind no matter how gentle ....but of course on some other blades that are less sensitive as you have stated on post war knives it can clean it up.

@ NS Sammler ...yea interesting finds and how the Germans thought it out making it happen by bending these runners to hold them in place. They also come on silver steel on later dagge types.

also seen are inside Heer and Luftwaffe daggers...but longer.

Regards Larry

[Rich Moran]

Hi Rich..be careful with that 3000 grit on Third Reich Blades...and I advise not to use it on them. IT WILL leave abrasions behind no matter how gentle ....but of course on some other blades that are less sensitive as you have stated on post war knives it can clean it up.

Regards Larry

Aloha Larry, Thanks for that tip on use of 3000 grit diamond polishing paste.

I also have 14000 grit as well & tried that and that produced a mirror like finish.

Am hesitant to do any era produced daggers with much of anything.

Only have 2, an RZM SA & an M36 chained SS. The blade on the SA shows it's age, the SS is near mint & I am willing to leave them the way they are.

BR, Rich

[Rich Moran]

Coming back to this thread and the reason is:

To aid in reducing and eliminating screw driver slipping on screw heads, as Larry pointed out the correct size tounge of the driver is important to reduce chance of slippage that causes the screws head to be buggered.

To further reduce/eliminate slippage, use a fine grit valve grinding compound to dress the drivers tounge. The grit bites into the metals surface aiding in locking the tip to the screw slot. I suggest practicing on screws that are screwed into a piece of wood, similar screw head size as that which is used with the scabbards you are attempting to work on.

this is an old hand me down mechanics tip that was passed to me years ago and has aided greatly with stubborn screws. Once the screw is removed, you can wipe the valve grinding compound off the screw. I do not recommend using the compound when reassembling as tightening the screws beyond what is need for static display while daily or event carrying the dagger will not occur and over torqueing may possibly strip the female opening in the daggers sheath.