How to display without liner damage??

[michaeldeb0rah]

Hello again all. The love of helmet collecting tilts us toward wanting to display to share what we have with others. Hence the question, how best to store (visible) and to display without causing addition damage to already fragile liners. The good ole styrofoam head or glass head or even plastic wig/hat stand are great, but do they stifle breathing leather and cause additional damage. I know just sitting them on a cloth may be best, but I’m sure my seasoned collector colleagues have been there and done all of that. Please share with us newcomers a list of preferences and how you’ve come to each conclusion. Thanks!!!

[Kohima]

As I understand it, the polystyrene heads are a no-no, certainly in the long term, due to slow chemical release. Fine for a photo shoot, or short term display, but not a ‘permanent’ solution.
Additional support for the liner can always be added, with a suitably sized bundle of cloth.

Personally, I like the simple wooden post type, as it visually disappears and displays the helmet itself without distraction. Plus, it’s completely inert and won’t have any adverse effect upon the headgear.

- Lovely WL M40, by the way! -

[AndyM35]

Rob raises some good points there. One technique for support that I’ve seen is to add a ring of cardboard with an acid free type paper covering to support the liner (see photo below - courtesy of S.Cormier).

Also, if you there’s no liner string, adding an original or replica etc, can bring the tongues together and add some further support.

[Rakkasan187]

Acrylic hat/helmet stands are an option as well as museum quality head forms. You can also use wooden paper towel holders with a dowel.

The image I attached are some of the methods that I have used in the past.

I also agree that the syrafoam heads do "offgas" and they could damage or stain leather liners. One way to slow this process is to put nylon stockings over the head. This of course is only a short term solution so for the long term the methods discussed are better off.

Smitty

[AndyM35]

Another option is the clear plastic baseball hat display support like the one below. There’s a huge variety available (some with a smoother domed section) and they can be trimmed to size so that only the dome section needs to be used.

[michaeldeb0rah]

Kohima, Andy and Smitty,
I Thank each of you for your responses and time tested solutions. I knew shortly after I hunted and found the display heads you see in my pictures that there might be a detriment to their use. You guys’ knowledge base shows just how valuable each of you are and how together you collectively make this a respected and necessary forum. Thank you.

[paulscoot]

Dummy stick grenade does it for me
regards Paul.

[michaeldeb0rah]

Paul,
Somewhere in this look is a pun about killing two birds with one stone, but I’m not smart enough to say it right. Thank you for sharing another useful tip.
Mike

[Airbornehunter]

Styrofoam heads will react with most brands of moth balls and melt, especially in close proximity of other plastics such as polyethene (definite no go) and/or vinyls (also definite no go). They are also acidic. I would highly recommend against styrofoam heads. I'd stay away from anything that comes into contact with the leather. Over time the weight of the helmet will put pressure on the leather and cause damage over time. Anyone with any decent collecting experience will have seen German helmets at shows where part of the leather skirt has tore out at the band on one side from a display head (if not completely). I have seen five or six in the last ten years. I'd recommend leaving on a shelf or a stick like stand that touches the crown.

Keep helmets away from strong temperature differentials. Helmets kept in a room at 65 degrees (F) constant will form moisture if a door or window is left open and say 80 degree (F) air moves in. The moisture will condense on the inside of the crown on German helmets and between the liner and shell on American M1 helmets. Similar things can happen to blades as well inside of scabbards. If your collection will experience temperature swings of more than only a couple degrees per hour, do not use any solid heads as moisture will accumulate between the head/crown and/or liner/head and cause rust or even molding. Even with careful attention, helmets stored in basements will still occasionally rust on the inner crown. And because of this fact it is very important to realize fresh looking rust inside the crown is not a dead give away for forgeries.

[MAP]

Depending on budget, I highly recommend Skip Greenwades stands.

HEADGEAR DISPLAYS

For soft headgear (visors, pickelhaubs and caps) you will want a hat stretcher combined with a stand. I must have 25 to 30 of these and add more each year.

For helmets (german in particular or others with leather tongues) examples like what Andy and Smitty show are great. they rest on the top of the steel shell itself. I use metal paper towel holders that I bought in bulk years ago. Skip has more fancy versions similar to what Paul has shown.