Heer dagger preservation

**Rich Moran** · 06-29-2022, 08:33 PM

be aware the grey spotting is pits caused by corrosion. The only way to totally rid the steel of corrosion pitting is by regrinding and polishing the blade which is impractical to do. At best you can stop further advancement by using a long term corrosion inhibitor or even oil. Allow the blade to have a light treatment, sit overnight, wipe it dry the next day. you can try using semi chrome to relieve some the minor pits of their oxides and then use Rennaissance wax or similar to aid in sealing the metal against oxygen which is the most corrosive element know. typically the pitting will remain but doing nothing it will get worse over time.

**Espenlaub Militaria** · 06-29-2022 08:33 PM

We also buy and trade your items and full collections!

**gerrit** · 06-30-2022, 03:44 PM

Well there is a huge difference in what is called "Flugrost" the so called surface Rust, and on the otherhand black spots, pitting and spidering.
Light surface rust can be treated very well by using WD40, spray the blade and put it back in its scabbard, first treatment would be a couple of days, then whipe it off and if you see smudge on your cloth its works, not fast but steady, i repeat this every 2nd day, whipe clean, respray pout it back in the scabbard etc.
After a month i spray it and let it in its scabbard for 3 months, after that 6 months.
I always clean my blades 2x a year.
If there is pitting or black holes or spidering then use a bit of simichrome and always go with the grain, never along the blade, after that seal it with renwax.
Real pitting or spidering will hardly benefit of WD40, where rust ate steel it will never return..

Ger

**Rich Moran** · 06-30-2022, 08:21 PM

I've yet to see the grey "smudge" - "pitting" be removed by a WD40 treatment.

Finger print with human oil, yes if not too old, but once the metal comes to the state of the condition the OP presented, nope, never seen it happen.

An old trick is using a #2 pencil to try to remove these things and that only goes so far too.

The best thing to do before purchasing a dagger is get the best condition dagger you can find, afford and maintain it.

If the item is vet or vets family acquired and is in the state of the OP's item, you'd have an item you could have some history with and that satisfaction could out weigh condition depending on how that condition presents itself.

I always strived & advocated to obtain the best condition item you can find, that way trying to remedy poor storage and handling becomes a near-no factor in ownership of correcting these issues. Then when the time comes to move the item an excellent condition piece becomes more desirable to potential new owners.

I understand how difficult it is as it takes time to save and while your saving many items pass you by.

Good luck with this dagger!