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The white disk on the Armband of your tunic is probably made of artificial silk, but could also be real silk. Pieces made from real silk are rather rare. You can especially recognize them because moths have nibbled on them. The cord around the swaz and disc is made of cellon. You see that often. The braid along the oak leaf border on the outer edges is also made of cellon, while the braid on the inner edge, like the oak leaves, is made of gold-plated metal thread. This mixing also occurs frequently and has nothing to do with the shortage of materials at the end of the war.
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01-29-2024 08:25 AM
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NSDAP Sammler
The white disk on the Armband of your tunic is probably made of artificial silk, but could also be real silk. Pieces made from real silk are rather rare. You can especially recognize them because moths have nibbled on them. ...This mixing also occurs frequently and has nothing to do with the shortage of materials at the end of the war.
I thought this about the Armband because in my book on Luftwaffe uniforms, it says that “In order to save material, the order (LV 44, No. 1532) of October 26, 1944 ordered that the names of the cuffs be shortened to a length of 22-25 cm and sewn on to the front of the sleeve. This order, however, was not strictly followed as existing titles continued to be used and available full-size titles were issued until they were exhausted." It's about the cuff titles with the names of the departments.
Thanks for the detailed answer about Armband. The collar tabs are not glued, but sewn with a hidden seam. And the collar tabs were never sewn on by a sewn machine. I didn't find holes on the collar after sewnmashine. I think the tunic has the right to live. Now, I have 2 NSDAP tunics. I was my minimum plan , one tunic earlier than 1939, and one tunic past 1939. Unfortunately the GAU tunic hasn't any label. I'll looking for more tunics in future. Weitze sold Kreis tunic, unfortunately I can't buy 2 tunics. 
With regards
Viktor
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The GAU tunic is beautiful, there's nothing wrong with it. If you say that the collar tabs were sewn on with a hidden seam, then I have to believe that because I can hardly refute it from a distance. It just seems strange to me because it requires a lot of unnecessary work and because the Armband was simply sewn on with single basting stitches. It's like wallpapering a room with silk damask wallpaper and then putting a parquet-look PVC covering on the floor. It doesn't really make sense to me. Ultimately that of course doesn't matter. The fact is that the tunic was unfortunately washed, probably several times, which can be clearly seen on the collar tabs and the armband. Whether it happened before 1945 or after could only be found out by using a black light lamp. As for the missing label, I wouldn't worry. Of my six PL tunics, three each have a label and three do not. Nevertheless, they are all original without a doubt.
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by
MigMig
Hello.
Here's an additional photos. I checked 100% no glue. There are no through seams on the collar, and there are no through seams on the collar tabs. On the second tunic, exactly as you say, the tabs have through seams.
Okay, you can now see that the collar tabs were actually sewn on with a hidden seam. This is the first time I've seen it in this form. I don't understand the reason for this because it is extremely uncomfortable to sew and also means that the collar tabs can easily slip while sewing and therefore look a bit crooked later. In addition, the collar tabs are not as firmly attached to the collar as if you sew and puncture along the piping. This always looks cleaner and is much less complicated.
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Well, I don't think your wife ever sewed collar tabs like that on that kind of uniforms - but I did. I also know how to sew by hand and I have mastered different types of hidden seams. Hidden seams are generally not "easy" to sew, no tailor or seamstress likes to do that, I also know that from my mother, who is a trained seamstress.
What you say about the hand-embroidered collar tabs is wrong. Not all of them have the velvet fabric sewn together with cross stitches on the back. The different manufacturers did this differently. I have several hand-embroidered PL collar tabs in my collection and have been able to study them well. The velvet material is always the same, it is very thin and tears easily. In order to sew it on with a hidden seam, you have to use a very thin needle, which should not be too long and must have the smallest possible needle eye.
From your photos you can clearly see that the spacing of the stitches is very uneven, which suggests that they were not done by a professional. That doesn't surprise me, because a trained seamstress or tailor wouldn't have sewn them on this way, as I mentioned before. A professional also wouldn't have twisted his fingers to laboriously sew on the collar tabs with an unusual hidden seam and then sew on the armband with very simple basting stitches, which always look very unprofessional and unstable.
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