It is not the size of a Collection in History that matters......Its the size of your Passion for it!! - Larry C
One never knows what tree roots push to the surface of what laid buried before the tree was planted - Larry C
“The farther back you can look, the farther forward you are likely to see.” - Winston Churchill
In terms of your new photos provided they confirm everything that Ullergaard mentioned and highlight more so the points i mentioned about it having plastic enamel.
I would still suggests it is no good, some of your new photos confirm even more of some of the earlier points i made back on pages 2 and 3 if you would like to re read them.
Thank you sweersz for further photos which are much clearer, although one of the rear of the sign would also help. Also glad to hear the remaining dimension matches other known RZM signs.
KmMorris, not sure what 'plastic enamel' is. Do you mean powder coating? If so I am well versed in this process as one of my other interests is restoring classic motorcycles and we use this method to coat frames etc. The finish is high gloss and this can be maintained by treating with wax polish etc. Although once scratched or scuffed it is impossible to regain the original sheen. Also this type of coating like all plastic coating does not chip or 'ping' off like glass enamel. It is possible to coat over rust with this process but not advisable as rust never sleeps.
So what facts do we have now, Constucted from steel, conforms to known signage dimensions. Everything else is opinion and only the OP has the benefit of being able to hold it in hand. Where is a 'real' expert when you need one!
Rgd's Mark.
There is real enamel and plastic/synthetic enamel used on fake signs, fake enamel badges, used lots on fake party badges, it chips in strips. As the photos show is a classical example of that. Also none has yet to explain the flared edges, which I pointed out.
Im fairly confident no one is going to convince either side in this thread as people seem entrenched in their views. But thats what a forum is all about, discussion and sharing opinions. All the facts have been stated by myself and others so I will now reside myself to reading this tread instead of wasting bandwidth reposting what has already been said.
Last edited by KMMorris; 11-22-2020 at 11:20 AM.
I like the spectacle of this thread. Do all these comments like the enamel splitting in strips also apply to period street signs?
Just to add, the splitting/striping hairline cracks in the enamel is only in areas where the sign was folded vertically, which would make sense because the metal in those areas flexed but the enamel is hard as glass and cannot, hence cracking vertically with the folds.
Also, I really do appreciate everyone chipping in to this thread -- a lot of good discussion here that I'm sure future hobbyists will find insightful.
Gents,
A fine thread full of good information and strong passions. While neither side may convince the each other on the authenticity/non-autenticity of the item, the continued engagement is encouraging.
Lets continue to focus on the item and not on each other.
Thanks!
Michael
"Please", Thank You" and proper manners appreciated
My greatest fear is that one day I will die and my wife will sell my guns for what I told her I paid for them
"Don't tell me these are investments if you never intend to sell anything" (Quote: Wife)
I also thought this thread has gone well. Some very useful tips have been highlighted that will help any new collectors dipping their toes into buying enamel signs.
I would like to highlight one more point though. Not all classical "ripped damage" done by fakers where you can see the damage has been done by ripping off detail in a downward fashion is actually done by fakers. Below is an example of damage caused in a machine work shop where this enamel was rescued sitting behind an industrial grinder. Always best to keep an open mind as enamel signs had many uses over the years after their original use fell out of favour.
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