Is this Gold Party Badge a good one?

[alikat]

I have been offered this badge, but have no idea whether it is a good one as I have never seen one before. Any thoughts welcome. He is asking $900 - is that fair?

[Adrian Stevenson]

Hi Al, please see here:

Golden Party Badge of the NSDAP

Cheers, Ade.

[alikat]

Thanks Ade,

I thought I had searched for this on the Forum, but maybe my search choice was bad. The numbers are wrong, specifically the '3' being flat topped, although spacing looks better the '1' is not level with the others. Howerver, the oak leaves look to be less pronounced than the later fakes and the enamel looks better and the 'O' rounded, but the hyphen is completely over the 'L'. I can't make out whether there is an & or U between 'Deschler' and 'Sohn' - now I see why you want higher resolution close-ups! So I gather that this is a FAKE! How am I doing so far?
Or is this the larger badge, in which case it has the squashed 'S' and rounded 'O', the leaves are to the edge with little vein visible, and the back looks relatively good to me??? Confused!

Cheers and a Merry Christmas to all!
Alistair

[alikat]

Help guys. I'm still not 100% sure on this, and it is an expensive mistake if I screw up.

[Erich S]

100 percent original and at price a real bargain!

[alikat]

Anyone else with input on this one?

[Erich S]

Al, the GPB is original and you should buy it at that price! Erich

[colt45]

MUNCHEN is not straight , 1 is high ,, no hole on the side if the pin block

[Erich S]

Believe want you want but the badge is real no doubt.

[PROF DR IVAN MILOVIC]

It looks genuine to me because faking it would be very difficult even on industrial level or in well equipped workshop. The badge has two parts: the first is enameled and fixed to the base with oak leaves in the following manner: the enameled part has a small hollow cylinder introduced through the hole visible at the back side and then expanded manually with a simple tool to get fixed. Jewelers do that because they never use tin soldering. Fakers would not bother to complicate it – they would simply solder the enameled part with tin (hard soldering would crack the enamel). Besides, every badge had different number and it was struck one digit at the time hammering it before the enameled part was fixed – fore the same reason – you cannot strike numbers over the enamel. If you examine struck numbers or hallmarks on silver, you will see that they are not perfectly aligned, I repeat, each digit was struck one at the time. Use high power magnifying glass (10 X) and look at the digits – there is a clear difference between struck and cast numbers. If not done this way, all badges would have the same number. All said, the badge is genuine, but the ``coffin`` attachment pin is a problem – it can be replaced easily using tin solder that cannot brake the enamel, having been removed from many less valuable badges
Ivan