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Late war relic camo M38 authenticity

Article about: Hey all, have the opportunity to buy what I believe to be a late war relic m38, which the seller says is camo and was found in Holland, and will clean up with a oxalic bath. Looking to deter

  1. #1

    Default Late war relic camo M38 authenticity

    Hey all, have the opportunity to buy what I believe to be a late war relic m38, which the seller says is camo and was found in Holland, and will clean up with a oxalic bath. Looking to determine its authenticity as a helmet, and if anyone believes there is any camo actually there, and what its value would be. Thanks in advance.
    Late war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticity[ATTACH=CONFIG]1456864[/ATTACLate war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticityH]Late war relic camo M38 authenticityLate war relic camo M38 authenticity
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  3. #2
    MAP
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    Looks good to me. Although fakers have nearly perfected the art of aging items.....

    As to it being a camo.... It does appear to have a rough over paint on parts of the helmet, which itself is a form of camouflage. But this might just be rust scaling. Hard for me to call either way.

    No idea if it would have been anything but a typical feldgrau color.
    "Please", Thank You" and proper manners appreciated

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  4. #3

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    Just be careful with the acid on the leather and alloy lug bolts - only a short time immersed or they may be further damaged ......
    " I'm putting off procrastination until next week "

  5. #4

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    Quote by MAP View Post
    Looks good to me. Although fakers have nearly perfected the art of aging items.....

    As to it being a camo.... It does appear to have a rough over paint on parts of the helmet, which itself is a form of camouflage. But this might just be rust scaling. Hard for me to call either way.

    No idea if it would have been anything but a typical feldgrau color.
    I don't think they have managed to fake cracks in the dome yet. Genuine helmets are made of much harder steel than fakes, and if you hit a fake helmet with force, you are more likely to dent it than split it.

  6. #5

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    I would agree with you MAP. I think it’s most likely authentic but cannot comment on its ability to withstand blunt force as I’ve never hit a “fake helmet with force”.

    Cheers!,
    Andy

  7. #6
    Jan
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    Hi 69Barracuda,

    Regarding conservation of this kind of helmets please check a previous project to get a ground dug helmet to a museum.

    M38 FALLSCHIRMJÄGERHELM rescue project

    Best,

    Jan

  8. #7

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    Quote by AndyM35 View Post
    I would agree with you MAP. I think it’s most likely authentic but cannot comment on its ability to withstand blunt force as I’ve never hit a “fake helmet with force”.

    Cheers!,
    Andy
    Blunt force doesn't crack a helmet, it puts a dent. High velocity force from something such as a shell fragment, is what causes cracks. A high velocity bullet might cause a crack, but is more likely to punch a hole. Whereas a low velocity bullet - such as from carbine, smg, or pistol is likely to cause a dent. A fake helmet will not withstand (as well) the same impact as a genuine helmet would - although there are exceptions. Even you Andy must have heard of the sometimes quoted question... 'How do you tell the difference between a Spanish Modelo Z helmet and a German M42?' The answer of course being... 'Hit them both with a hammer'. This of course being a reference to the low resistance to damage of the Spanish helmet.

    Because of the fractures, I have no doubt that the relic shell is genuine.

  9. #8

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    Thanks everyone for the helpful responses, can anyone lead me towards a direction of pricing for one? Thanks again.

  10. #9

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    I'll see if I can get the bolts off first and take the bolts and leather off before I give it a bath, thanks for the tip.

  11. #10

    Default

    Thats a great help, thanks! I was looking at giving it a oxalic bath and try to do a liquid parafine finish to preserve it.

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