Quist M-16 Helmet restore & factory Graugrün recipe question

[Mordecai]

Hello all, I have this Quist M-16 that was tampered with by a biker and painted over using primer and black paint. I removed all the black paint by slowly scrapping and rubbing acetone which revealed the original grey green paint from WW1. Most of the paint is remaining on the inside with almost all of the graugrün paint gone ontop. The vent holes have been welded shut and I am looking to get some size 66 vent lugs and redrill out the holes. I have sealed the top with bondo and sanded where the biker had drilled to mount a pickelhaube spike mount as I can always take the bondo off if it doesn't hold well (I asked a friend about the possibility of welding but he recommended trying bondo first). I have experience in leather work so I was thinking I could possibly try to make a M-16 leather liner but it seems there might be a line from what looks like a M-17 steel band liner so I might just wait to get a M-17 liner instead.

I am aware you can purchase 'Graugrün' spray paint from various companies but I wandered across this article here regarding factory Graugrün paint mixture mandated in WW1 and even if I dont end up using this mixture I was wondering if anyone has tested this?
Also the lot number on my helmet is R 626 which is of course for Stahlwerk Röchling, Volkingen.
Gramercy for any tips or knowledge for restoration of this helmet!

References:
Just a moment...
A Short History of the German Steel Helmet of the Great War - Alexander and Sons German Helmet Restoration

(*) Indicates a note I have placed

*I am assuming it is mixed by weight*

"Helmets were painted at the factory with smooth low-gloss linseed oil based enamel paint.
The color was designated as “field-gray”. The term field gray can be somewhat confusing as original helmets vary greatly in color.
The official war department authorized formula was,
-30% white pigment in an oil base, *Linseed oil base I presume. Pigment is probably lead oxide, possibly zinc. Maybe titanium?*
-15% ochre pigment (dry), *Yellow Ochre*
-5% blue pigment (dry), *Prussian, Methylene blue?*
-5% black pigment (dry) *Carbon, Powdered Charcoal?*
-20% turpentine, *Thinner*
-10% siccative *Japan drier*
-15% water. *Not entirely sure why they added water*
-Once painted the helmets were oven cured at 120 degrees Celsius for eight hours. *Or 248 Degrees Fahrenheit*

*Also I presume the method of painting was by spraying*

Yet original helmet paint can range from dark green to olive. Although some shades appear to be factory specific, it is not uncommon to find helmets produced at the same factory which exhibit variations in field gray."


Before removing paint

After


*I have taken all the black paint off ontop I am just too lazy to take another picture of it atm*




My other post on this helmet (I know I was a bit overzealous naming that thread)
Black 'ventless' Quist M16 trans Stalhelm W/ Pickelhaube mount
Again any opinions are greatly appreciated!

[Kateri]

Nice to see that original paint inside the helmet,and a name in the last photo?
Any chance of a respray on the outside only?
Lots of history behind your shell.
Repaint the exterior and add a liner to keep the story going?
Thanks for showing the project and the link to your other posts about the stahlhelm.

[Mordecai]

I was going to mention the possibility of a name on the inside but I wasnt certain and I wanted to see if anyone else noticed. I've tried reading it but it is rather hard to make out. If I get around to respraying I would only repaint the outside only. For some reason there are two weld marks on the front of the helmet so Im not sure what they were covering up, I doubt it was battle damage but it's a possibility I suppose. You can see the back of the weld in the front in the fourth picture. Appreciate the response!

[Kateri]

Ex Czech possibly?
I've never checked it out but when I was looking for an M42 size 68 shell they usually had parallel holes cut on the front for a badge.

[BlackCat1982]

A nice project, great to see original paint on the inside skirt and the name, which I've not yet figured out. A challenge to get it back from its time as a biker helmet but I look forward to seeing how you get on. Good luck!

[Mordecai]

Update: 10/16/23

Took some time for the lugs to get in but now I've got the left side drilled out. Probably going to take my time measuring and drilling the other side so it isnt unsymmetrical.

Did they crush the Vent lugs on like a rivet or did they spot weld the lugs onto the metal washer on the inside?



I know you can just order paint or have it matched but for the fun of it i've been testing linseed oil paint mixtures and the factory paint on the inside of my helmet seems to have a tad more Ochre & Black than the recipe asks. The color changed batch to batch & factory to factory so it isnt unusual but I found it interesting enough to note.
I also cannot tell if is a name in the inside or just wear.

Sorry for the wait, I appreciate anyone who might be following this still!

[Mordecai]

10/17/23

Got done drilling the other side and installed both lugs.
I used a metal punch and an anvil to rivet the lugs in place, they feel secure and line up quite well. I am happy with how they came out!
Looking into either mixing my own paint or having it matched.

[BlackCat1982]

You are doing a great job. If you are matching the exterior paint colour with the interior shade then I would use acrylic paint as it is water based. I don't think adding a new liner would add anything to the look of the shell, for me that pencil name is what you need to see and preserve.

[Mordecai]

Completely agree with preserving the interior and the pencil name.
Acrylic is probably best for matching the interior paint, though a part of me wants to try to replicate the Graugrün using Oil based enamel paint for the fun of it even if I don't use it. I may end up using acrylic in the long run.

[Mordecai]

Took me awhile deciding on how I wanted to paint my helmet but I decided I would try to replicate the old recipe and that I didnt want to use any primer or filler even if some of the old scars showed through the paint.

Took me about 4 hours of hand mixing Linseed oil based pigment paint following the recipe to get it to color I was happy with. I then mixed it with about 40% Turpentine and put it in my spray gun. I did not have any siccative on hand so I let it dry extra long in the oven by letting it slowly heat from 180-248°F (Or 82-120°C) for about 8 hours to dry the paint properly. There was no way I was going to match the paint on the inside perfectly by hand so I just settled on a Graugrün I was happy with. I knew without any filler or primer the scars would show through a little but It came out better than I thought. I may clean it up more with some very fine grit sand paper sometime though.

Overall I would highly recommend using the original paint recipe and baking it on as it didn't damage the original paint and it came out with a very nice original looking finish! I tried taking the pictures outside as the sun was going down but i couldn't get it to focus, I may take some more pictures and post them later.








An Eisernes Kreuz Class 2 & Silver Verwundetenabzeichen for a wounded helmet that has come a far way!

Any thoughts, questions, or comments are greatly appreciated!

Cheers!