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A Very Rusty Mask Canister

Article about: Hello folks. I'm in need of some specialist advice. A few months ago, I bought a pair of German gas masks in their canisters, a GM 30 and GM 38. The canister for the 38 is lovely, with barel

  1. #1

    Default A Very Rusty Mask Canister

    Hello folks.

    I'm in need of some specialist advice. A few months ago, I bought a pair of German gas masks in their canisters, a GM 30 and GM 38. The canister for the 38 is lovely, with barely a spot of rust on it.
    Unfortunately, the same cannot be said of the other. It is covered in a rather thick layer of surface rust. The interior has escaped this, but the whole of the exterior is looking rather shabby. All of its original paint is present beneath it, as can be seen from the provided images. There's even a unit number painted just beneath the rim, the last number covered with rust but quite clearly there underneath.
    I'd like to know how I can go about removing the rust without hurting the paint or unit number. If I don't do anything, I fear it'll only get worse.

    Regards, B.B.
    Click to enlarge the picture Click to enlarge the picture A Very Rusty Mask Canister   A Very Rusty Mask Canister  

    A Very Rusty Mask Canister   A Very Rusty Mask Canister  


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  3. #2

    Default

    very nice - just apply some beeswax and it will look nice.

  4. #3

    Default

    You think I should just leave it as is?
    I have some Renaissance Wax, and I wonder if that will work just as well.

    B.B.

  5. #4

    Lightbulb

    Nice lot of paint left - as others have said, a coat of wax is recommended. If the rust is dry and slightly 'bubbly', I have had success by giving items like this a very light rubbing over with very fine wire wool. This can just lift red-rust while keeping original paintwork intact. This works on heavy-duty items such as gasmask and shell transport canisters which usually have quite thick paint ( ie I wouldn't recommend this method for a Knights Cross ! )

  6. #5

    Default

    Thanks for the advice!

    Have heard talk of oxalic acid on this and other forums. Would that be effective in this case, or would I be doing more damage than is really necessary?

    B.B.

  7. #6

    Default

    I simply wipe off the Surface-Rust & Crud...have never had anything deteriorate any further...Proper -Dry- Storage is important of course...
    cheers, Glenn

  8. #7

    Default

    Quote by bigmacglenn1966 View Post
    I simply wipe off the Surface-Rust & Crud...have never had anything deteriorate any further...Proper -Dry- Storage is important of course...
    cheers, Glenn
    My chief worry as a collector; that I'm unable to regulate the temperature or humidity of my collection room. It hasn't gotten any worse since I've bought it, thankfully. And I try not to handle anything metal without gloves.

    B.B.

  9. #8

    Default

    Quote by BrodieBartfast View Post
    My chief worry as a collector; that I'm unable to regulate the temperature or humidity of my collection room. It hasn't gotten any worse since I've bought it, thankfully. And I try not to handle anything metal without gloves.

    B.B.
    These Items were made for use in a Combat Environment, and have survived well considering they've been stored improperly for over 70 years, exposed to the elements and seasons...Wipe Off the Rust and put the Canister on your shelf to enjoy...No need for gloves unless you don't want to get your hands dirty, lol... Good Luck in your collecting, and welcome aboard!
    cheers, Glenn

  10. #9

    Default

    It's amazing how well some of these things have preserved given the intervening years. I have a British army respirator that was stored in its bag in someone's shed. Buttons oxidized, fabric dirty, and when I opened it up it was filled with cobwebs and dead spiders. ( A joyful experience, being an arachnophobe ). But the mask itself is perfectly preserved. Rubber in good order, not so much as a speck of rust on the metal pieces. Even the fragile hose is still intact and flexible.

    I really must post the rest of my gas mask collection on here at some point.

    Thanks for welcoming me. It's only been a month or so, and I already feel right at home!

    B.B.

  11. #10

    Default

    Oxalic acid needs to be used in well ventilated room. You could also try electrolysis which won't affect the paintwork along with soaking in citric acid.

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