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04-27-2022 08:32 AM
# ADS
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The lubricant I suggest might work on your mark
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That mark which appears int he photo that someone tried to scratch it off ...looks like blade cancer which a lubricant will not help it at all.
When trying to enlarge the photo ..it became blurry so I can say for sure that it is that black cancer ....clearer close up photos will decide that.
Regards Larry
It is not the size of a Collection in History that matters......Its the size of your Passion for it!!
- Larry C
One never knows what tree roots push to the surface of what laid buried before the tree was planted - Larry C
“The farther back you can look, the farther forward you are likely to see.” - Winston Churchill
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Once corrosion develops, pitting is a natural occurrence as it becomes a charged corrosion cell and the goal now is to stop the flow of electrons, hence a "charged" corrosion cell.
You can try a #2 pencil to see it that will help remove some of the oxides (on the blade only!) caused by cathode (oxidizer) to anode (reductant), basically the flow of electrons and the spent energy from the metals original molten state that's been stored after cooling becomes oxide. Don't expect a miracle!
Oxide is the "dust" you write of. this is an occurrence of metals reverting back to it's pre molten state, albeit without some of the combination of ores combined when it's molten state as some of the ores are consumed as fuel in the corrosion process.
A good comparison is a gasoline engine burning gasoline, becomes carbon monoxide with it's other chemicals that were combined in the refining process.
Resting the bare metal blade on a coated metal surface that is near a century old, no doubt, the coated surface has small holes that the eye cannot detect but the flow of electrons from surface contact occurs damaging both metal surfaces. The hard carbon steel versus sheet metal, a weaker steel material than the blade becomes the corrosion pit driver. Now that there are corrosion pits on both scabbard and blade, slowly, over time the corrosion will continue.
Use of a thin film rust inhibitor will slow the process, apply, let it sit 24 to 48 hours and wipe clean both items. Use a high quality wax such as Renwax to aid in locking out the most corrosive known element, oxygen, as O2 is the fuel that causes the corrosion to continue. And don't rest the blade on anything other than inert material, a Lucite stand.
Last edited by Rich Moran; 04-27-2022 at 11:23 PM.
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That was me trying to scratch it off with a chopstick because I thought it was something that has stuck on there I didn't realise it was a corrosive pit.
Golly this just gets worse for me now I have scratch marks. Eek
I will try to take some clearer photos.
I would be interested in your views on using a rust inhibitor as someone in suggested or applying dry lubricants as someone else suggested.
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Can you please explain a little bit more about the thin film rust inhibitor do you have an example of such a product?
Also how does ren wax go in something like the edged lettering in the motto does it get wax building up in there?
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by
Gatoblanconz
Can you please explain a little bit more about the thin film rust inhibitor do you have an example of such a product?
Also how does ren wax go in something like the edged lettering in the motto does it get wax building up in there?
A thin film rust inhibitor such as CarWell CP90 which delivers a year protection in open atmosphere and much longer in indoor areas away from moisture and internal combustion monoxides, acid rain and or/high humidity. There are other thin film inhibitors and some consider WD40 as such. WD40 is not a rust inhibitor and while that might seem to work it actually degreases surfaces as well as works to remove pollutants from metal surfaces.
Thin film rust inhibitors are just that, a thin oil (petroleum hydrocarbon or mineral oil) that acts as a carrier for the rust inhibitor itself. When metals are produced and after cooling there typically is an oil applied to the surface. The metal hydrates at the molecular level and some oils are combined with rust inhibitors that attach themselves to the cathode and anode side (+ & -) thus isolating the poles from each other resulting in slowing corrosion down...but that level of shutdown can vary, from 50%(depending on the product & frequency of application needed) and after spending decades in the corrosion control industry and seen tested products deliver at as high as 96% shut down where corrosion to a point where it's not perceptible to the human eye. Thicker oil based rust inhibitors would be a mess on a dagger blade as they are designed to remain on the surface and little is absorbed into the substrate. An example of that is Fluid film that is a lanolin based rust inhibitor. They do produce a thinner film but did poorly on US Army Tank & Automotive Command and USN NSWC Carderock Divison field testing for the USMC.
CarWell CP90 is thin film, absorbed into the substrate and has been tested to control corrosion at about 94% slowing of corrosion rate. It does not gum up and is excellent for firearm use, locks, frozen fasteners etc. Apply it, let it rest on the surface and 48 to 72 hours later wipe the excess carrier oil (8 weight approximately) from surface and use Renwax.
If Renwax is applied to the engraving and lettering a fine nylon brush can be used, lightly abraded over the etching to remove any excess. Keyword here is LIGHTLY.
Some here like Semi Chrome and that works as well, but the keyword for using anything that has a grit to it is to apply light pressure.
BR,
Rich
Last edited by Rich Moran; 04-28-2022 at 03:14 AM.
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