Fantastic!! Knowledge is only knowledge when it is shared.
Well done Doug, I tip my Hat to you.
Regards Phill.
Fantastic!! Knowledge is only knowledge when it is shared.
Well done Doug, I tip my Hat to you.
Regards Phill.
Thanks guys, hopefully collectors can use this simple section to better identify their SS helmets and if they possess the core graphic and application qualities I have posted. Note, it does not address the further identification challenges of print quality, pulver construction and minor print variations but should be a good basic first step guide for collectors to compare with.
Very helpful - thanks for taking the time to do this. Jim G.
Supremely informative and succinct thread Doug, personally very useful too as I'm trying to crack this very subject at the moment.
I applaud you for the initiative, Doug.
Now let's create Heer, KM, and LW databases, shall we?
Thanks Doug.
That would be extremely helpful if someone can do the same by Heeres decals. As I've seen in the past very good decals, but with deep bad feeling
Regards,
Dimas
my Skype: warrelics
Unfortunately my German helmet collection isn't big enough to make a database by myself, but I have a crisp Quist 'Bigfoot' that I can share. I will start a database today with a good shot of it and I'm sure others will be able to add.
Good initiative. Hopefully it will be a "sticky"
This has educated me and cleared up my own reservations about my ss helmet wich is the second m40 pattern decal it all checks out now after this i went to snyders and saw how he was selling bogus ss helmets galore wow if your looking for a ss helmet to purchase i would recommend this class thank god i got my helmet 35 uyears ago and for tradseys i can see why collectors dont want to know but there allways comes qa time when they just have to go there were a funny lot .
Some clarification to the term "break". I refer in this SS decals reference thread to "hard" and "soft" breaks. A decal like a Pocher has a "hard break" where the vertical borders end abruptly and then turns inward to the bottom point. A decal like an ET has a "soft break" where the vertical borders do not end but rather curve gently inwards towards the bottom point.
Further to this the runes for each decal manufacturer are in a consistent position from the break and are a critical and key visual reference point on every SS decal. Key is always the left hand break/runic position from it. Many fakers damage or paint over or cover with wire the left hand break as it is often a dead giveaway as a fake. Often the decal has suffered the most (fake) damage or covering in this 1 spot. Fakers often know this reference point and try to hide it on purpose. If the left hand break is damaged or covered in any way and you are new with SS decals then automatically your spider senses should start tingling that there is something not right. Note, many real decals and helmets have suffered decal damage in this area as well so its not a hard and fast rule, just one of the many things to note when evaluating an SS helmet.
I hope this makes the term "break" and what to look for a part of your decal knowledge skills!
Cheers
Doug
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